Bugs & Insect Tips
Ants
Euonymus Scale
Fungus Gnats
Beetle Grubs
Controlling Grubs
Iris Borers
Controlling Japanese Beetles
Controlling Slugs
Spider Mites - Browning Alberta Spruce Needles
What are Beetle Grubs?
Beetle grubs are a major cause of lawn damage each spring and fall in our area Grubs are the larvae stage of beetle cycles. Adult beetles lay eggs from early to mid summer. In a short time the eggs develop into grubworms which begin to feed on grass roots from mid summer until fall's cooler soil temperatures force them to seek refuge at deeper soil depths. The grubs then hibernate until spring temperatures warm the soil. They then resume feeding until they pupate or "hatch" into mature beetles anywhere from late May through mid July.
The Damage
The resulting damage (which may take not start showing until the summer or early in the spring) appears as brown patches of dead turf that enlarge as the grubs continue to feed. To check for grubs pull at a section of dead turf. It will roll back like a swatch of carpet. Dig down at the edge of a damaged area and you will find the grubworms themselves; grayish, white grubs with gray or brown heads, approximately 1/2" to 3/4" long. They will be curled into the shape of the letter "C". Immature grubs are milky gray in color and resemble elongated eggs. They will be about 1/4 inch long.
Grub Control
There are many variables in trying to achieve maximum grub control, including the type of grub, the timing and type of insecticide, the amount of thatch, and how well the insecticide is watered into the soil. Remember that maximum control is usually 80% to 90%. An otherwise healthy lawn can tolerate 4-6 grubs per square foot without showing grub damage.
It is essential that any insecticide you apply be watered in immediately and thoroughly after application. Water each area treated for at least one hour.
The best time to treat for grubs is mid-April to mid-May and mid-August to mid-September. Grub cycles will vary from year to year, so it is best to consult your garden store expert to determine proper insecticide and timing for application.
What about Moles?
Although mole activity may signal grub infestation, moles feed on a variety of soil insects. Eliminating grubs may convince moles to move elsewhere, but other controls should be used to solve the problem
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Why Are the Needles on My Alberta Spruce Browning?
If you are an Alberta Spruce owner, or planning on planting one in your landscape, listen up. I have got a few tips to help keep them looking this good. I am always getting questions about why Alberta spruce are browning in spots and loosing needles. And it is usually one of 2 things.
1.) Lack of moisture in the ground anytime during the season will cause them to yellow and brown, especially if they are dry going into the winter or summer. If the soil is dry going into the winter or summer, the needles lose moisture, can not replace it and bingo, you have dead needles. You will see this browning happening on the sides exposed to high winds, sun, or facing the foundation of the home, where it usually stays drier.
2.) Spider mites, a sucking insect, can be a problem on Alberta spruce, especially the cool season mites. Cool season mites are active in the cooler seasons, namely spring and late summer / early fall. And that is the time to check for mites. By the time you see browning due to mites, most of the damage has already taken place. To check for mites, take a piece of white paper and hold it under a branch. Shake the branch on the paper. Look on the paper for very tiny slow moving specks. If you can not see any, try gently wiping your hand across the paper looking for a slight smear. Both are indicators of mites, and yes, these mites will cause the needles to turn brown and fall off. Granted you can spray for mites using insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils, but here is my way of taking care of the mite problems without the chemical sprays, and keeping good moisture in the soil.
Beginning in mid to late March, start a regiment of hosing out the spruce with a strong stream of water about every 2-3 weeks. And I mean really hose it out. This not only waters your spruce regularly, but also dislodges the mites and blows them off the plant! Do this right up until the first of July. In July and August, hose it out maybe once per month, but when September arrives, go back to the hosing out every 2-3 weeks. Again, knocks off the cool season mites, and waters the spruce. Keep this up through October, and then water as needed to make sure it has good soil moisture going into the winter.
This procedure is one of the best ways to keep your Alberta spruce looking good every year, with just a garden hose, and a good stream of water.
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How Can I Control Bagworms?
During late June and July, you seem to notice a loss of needles on your evergreens, and an increase in cone-like structures hanging from the branches. Upon closer inspection, you realize the cone-like structures are actually moving, and devouring your evergreen's needles! The culprit - the common Bagworm.
Description - Bagworms are caterpillars that during June, July and early August, make distinctive spindle-shaped bags comprised of leaves, needles, sticks, bark, etc, and actually live inside the bag (mature bags can reach 1 and 1/2 to 2 inches long). They carry it with them as they move around both deciduous plants and evergreens feeding on the foliage. They are especially damaging to evergreens (juniper, spruce, pines, arborvitae, cedar, cypress, etc.) as stripping the plants of their foliage may result in death of the plant. And they largely go unnoticed as they do resemble pine cones! The female remains in the caterpillar form, but the male eventually develops into a winged bee like creature (August). He mates with the female, resulting in the fertilized female laying from 300-1,000 eggs in her bag. The bag is then attached to a plant branch with a silk-like band, to hang in place over winter. Those eggs over winter in that bag, and hatch out late May and early June, starting the entire bagworm process all over again. These tiny bagworms are so small, they are carried in the winds to other evergreens (ballooning stage) or they may stay on the plant where they hatched.
Control:
1.) Hand Picking - Physical removal is a great way to rid your plants of bagworms. Whether during the feeding times or over the winter and early spring before the eggs hatch (which happens late May thru mid June), picking the bags off the plants and destroying them stops the bagworms before they ever get started. Destroy the bags by smashing, soaking in soapy water, or burning.
2.) Chemical Control - There are no preventative sprayings for preventing bagworm infestations. You can only spray for control after the bagworms have been noticed actively feeding on the plants. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is very effective against the early stages of bagworms, and very much environmentally safe. Spray Bt towards mid to late June after all bagworms have hatched. Other insecticides will also control bagworms, and remember that earlier sprays against younger larvae are more effective rather than later against older larvae. And the silk bags will become an impermeable protectant for the bagworm, so spraying means making sure the foliage is soaked. Orthene, Eight, Sevin, Malathion, Rotenone, etc are a few of the many insecticides listed for bagworm control. If you do not realize that there is a bagworm problem until late in the season, forget the sprays. Hand pick what you can, and wait until next mid June to spray the newly hatched bagworms when they are most susceptible to sprays. Use this tactic for controlling bagworms in the tops of tall evergreens that cannot be hand picked. Wait for hatching, and then spray as needed.
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How Can I Control Grubs?
What are Grubs? - Grubs are the C-shaped larvae of a group of beetles, typically found just below the soil's surface. Japanese Beetles, May or June Beetles, Masked Chafers, Asiatic Garden Beetles, are examples of beetles in this group. Although each has it is own characteristics, grubs have stout, grayish to white C shaped bodies with brown heads, ranging in size from 3/8 to 1 inch long. C shaped grubs is one of the stages of the beetle lifecycle [eggs (typically laid in the summer months), larvae (the C shaped grub - late summer thru spring), pupae (stage just before emerging from the ground into an adult - spring thru early summer), and the adult - late spring thru summer].
What do Grubs do? - Grubs eat organic matter including the roots of plants (especially turf - typically not a major problem for other plants). They will feed from mid summer until cooler weather forces them to move deeper into the soil for the winter. During the spring, they move back to the upper soil, lightly feeding before pupating and emerging from the soil as an adult beetle.
How do I know if I have Grubs? - Grub damage to the turf first appears to be drought stress, as the turf appears off color, wilts in the sun, thins out, and eventually begins dieing in large patches. The turf can feel spongy and in many cases be rolled back like loose carpet. This typically occurs late summer and early fall. (Grub damage in the spring is generally less, due to lighter feeding, and the turf vigorously growing to mask over grub damage.) You can check for grubs by pealing back the turf and taking a look. Remember that populations of 6 - 10 (or so) grubs per square foot in a healthy lawn typically will not show any grub damage. Higher populations may require treatment. Note: Low grub populations may not show observable turf damages, but predatory animals such as flocks of blackbirds, or skunks, raccoons, opossums, and moles may find your turf attractive if grubs are present. (Although they also feed on many other soil insects, including earthworms. Do not treat for grubs if you have moles. Only treat for grubs if grubs are a problem to your turf.).
How do I control Grubs? - Cultural Controls: The first step is to maintain a healthy lawn. A healthy lawn means fewer weeds, less disease, and fewer insect problems. Consider using turf type tall fescues, as they show a higher tolerance of grubs than Ky. Bluegrasses or perennial ryes. Only irrigate the lawn during the early summer as needed (thorough deep soaking, then dry out before watering again); high moisture levels are important for beetles laying eggs as well as egg development.
Chemical Controls: Preventative controls means the insecticide is applied as insurance before potential grub problems develop. These products are applied one time to the turf, anytime mid May through July, last all season, and are there to stop grubs in the early stages (egg and newly hatched) before damages can occur. These products include: SCOTT'S GRUB EX or BAYER'S ADVANCED LAWN SEASON-LONG GRUB CONTROL. Curative controls are applied late summer (after the eggs have hatched and grubs are present), and have a short residual effect. These products include: DYLOX
*Always read and follow the label / directions on each recommended product before use. Actual grub control will vary due to timing, soils, moisture, thatch, and other environmental factors. Remember, there is never 100% grub control.
[Resources include OSU Extension / UK Extension Services]
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How Can I Control Japanese Beetles (Adults)?
What do Japanese beetles look like? - Adult Japanese beetles are metallic green color, oval, and about 3/8 to 1/2 an inch long, and about 1/4 inch wide. The wing covers are copper brown, and their abdomen has a row of five tufts of white hairs on each side.
Where do Japanese beetles come from and what will they do? - Japanese beetles are the adult stage of grubs in the soil (one of many types of grubs). They emerge from the ground and begin to feed on plants sometime in June. They feed on over 400 species of leafy plants, eating leaves, flowers, and sometimes the fruit. They are most active during the warmer parts of the day, and especially active on warm, clear, sunny days. Activity usually lasts about 4-6 weeks, after which the beetles gradually die off. (Individual beetles live about 30-45 days.) After mating, females lay their eggs in the turf, which hatch into grubs, and feed on turf roots in the soil until cold weather drives them deeper into the soil. They move back to the top when temperatures warm (spring), and emerge as adults the following June.
One beetle does little damage, but they usually feed in groups, starting at the top of a plant and working down, and group feeding can cause severe damage. Early arrivals release a hormone, which attracts other adults to the plants. Females also release an additional sex pheromone to attract males. Odors released from beetle-damaged leaves also assists in attracting beetles to a particular plant. And, although Japanese beetle damage looks devastating, their feeding rarely kills plants. Note: Although adult beetles typically only make short flights as they move about to feed or lay eggs, they are extremely mobile and have been known to fly as far as 5 miles.
How do I control Japanese beetles? - Cultural Controls: Do not plant trees and shrubs that Japanese beetles like. Japanese and Norway maples, birch, pin oak, rose of Sharon, sycamore, ornamental apples, plums and cherries, roses, willows, lindens, hollyhock, sassafras, grapes, filbert, even poison ivy are a few of their favorite plants. If you do, just be prepared for 'possible' Japanese beetles. Physical Removal: Removing them by hand, keeping lower populations, and not allowing beetles to accumulate (beetles attract beetles) will help. Hand picking, hosing them off, or shaking them off the plant early in the morning when the insects are sluggish works great. Shake them into a bucket of soapy water. Highly valued plants could be covered with cheesecloth, grow covers, or fine netting during the peek of beetle activity. Mechanical Control -Trapping: There are several types of Japanese beetle traps, with both a floral / food lure and a sex pheromone lure, and can draw in thousands of beetles each day. Research has shown these traps actually attract more beetles than are caught. And, susceptible plants may be along the flight path of the beetles, and could suffer more than if no traps had been used at all. If using traps, place them well away from gardens and landscape plants. Chemical Controls: Many insecticides are labeled for use against Japanese beetle adults. If you take this route, 1.) Thoroughly treat foliage and flowers 2.) Use spreader sticker to increase duration of effectiveness 3.) Repeated sprayings may be needed (check labels) 4.) Do not spray when bees are active 5.) Insecticidal soaps will kill adults hit by the spray, but provide no residual protection 6.) If spraying edibles, check labels for any restrictions. Insecticides for adult beetles include Eight, Sevin, Orthene, Rotenone / Pyrethrum sprays, Merit (if applied to plants 3 weeks in advance, and it will need assistance with other foliar sprays in heavy populations), Insecticidal Soaps, and Neem Oil (very limited success). Natural Control: Birds such as grackles, cardinals and larger birds will feed on the adult beetles.
Note: Because beetles are attracted to favorable plants from a considerable distance, controlling grubs in the lawn will not protect landscape plants from adult feeding.
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How Do I Control Slugs (Snails)?
What are slugs and what do they do? - Slugs are simply shell-less snails. These slimy creatures are mollusks, vary in size from ¼ inch to 5 inches plus, range from dark black-brown to orange in color, are hermaphroditic (male and female) laying up to 100 eggs or more (spring and summer), and are highly dependent on moisture in the ground and surrounding habitat. The slime trails they leave behind (when moving) become silvery when dry, and is used to identify the presence of slugs (along with holes in the plant's foliage!).
Slugs over winter as adults in the ground. In the summer, they hide during the day under garden debris, mulch, rocks, boards, weeds and groundcover, to stay out of the sun and wind. A slug is 80% water, and its slime is 98% water, so cool, dark and damp living conditions are important, and the main reason they feed at night, or during cloudy days. Slugs are especially active after rainfalls or irrigation periods.
Slugs (snails) feed on a variety of living plants as well as decaying plant matter. They have chewing mouthparts and cause plant damage by creating large irregularly shaped holes in leaves with tattered edges. They prefer succulent foliage or flowers, seedlings, herbaceous plants, and fruit lying on or close to the ground, etc., but eat anything from garbage to feeding on bones. Hostas, by the way, are definitely one of their favorite plants!
How can I control Slugs in my garden? - There are several ways to help control slug populations, and in most cases, a combination of methods works best. Cultural Controls: Eliminate places where slugs can hide, like stones, debris, weeds, and heavy mulches, and try to use plants less susceptible to slug damages. Open up the areas to more sunlight and airflow, which slugs do not like. Handpicking: Have a 'Slugfest' to see who can pick the most slugs. Pick at night with a flashlight in hand. This is effective if done on a regular basis. Water the area before picking to entice the slugs out. Trapping: Inverted melon rinds or grapefruit halves make excellent traps. Scrape off the accumulated slugs daily and destroy them. Beer-baited traps work nicely. Use empty tuna cans, place in the ground around plants and fill with beer (non alcoholic beer works best). Slugs are attracted to the beer, fall in the can and drown. Empty and refill with beer as needed. Barriers: Copper barriers around beds will keep slugs from entering. Using coarse sand, crushed egg shells, or used coffee grounds around desirable plants creates a border to help keep slugs out. Sprinkling the soil and or foliage with Diatomaceous Earth acts as a barrier; when slugs crawl across it, they are sliced and dehydrate. Even using pine straw for mulch seems to deter slug populations. Baits: Slug baits are probably the most consistent method of slug control. Deadline, Bug-Geta Plus and SlugGeta are 3 of the most common poison baits. Please read the label for best application methods and restrictions (some not used around edibles). Covered containers or bait traps can be used to minimize poisoning concerns. (Cut a 2 liter pop bottle in half and then invert the top part into the bottom part to create a no escape entryway into this homemade trap. Put your baits inside the container, which now protects it from the kids and wildlife.) Sluggo and SlugMagic is a safer to use slug bait, and can be used around children, pets, wildlife, the garden, etc; a bit less toxic and much safer around the kids and pets. Natural Enemies: Slugs have natural enemies, including ducks, geese, chickens, snakes, toads, turtles, birds, beetles, spiders, ants, harvestmen and firefly larvae. Invite these guys to your slugfest!
*Always read and follow the label / directions on each recommended product before use. Actual slug control will vary due to many factors, and rarely is there ever 100% control. We do not recommend the use of salt in or on top of the soil for slug control.
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What Is Euonymus Scale?
If all of a sudden you have noticed your euonymus plants losing leaves and pieces dieing out, well guess what? It did not just happen. It is something that has been brewing all summer long. Take a close look at those bare branches and the good branches, and I think you will find the problem. See those white flakes on the leaves and stems? That is euonymus scale. It is a sucking insect, and they have been having a great time with your euonymus all summer long. These scale over winter under the shell, and come next spring, the females lay eggs, which hatch out as crawlers, they move to another part of the plant, form the shell, and the process starts all over. All the while, they are literally sucking the nutrients right out of your plants.
Now, you will find euonymus scale on almost all the varieties of euonymus, from the ground covers, to the bush forms, and it is actually very common. But once the populations of scale get high enough, it really takes its toll on the plants. So, what is the best way to get rid of it, and keep it under control?
-The first defense is keeping your plants as healthy as possible through proper feeding and watering.
-Remove branches that are heavily infested with the scale and destroy it.
-Spray the plants with horticultural oil during the dormant season, usually around mid December, and or during March as a dormant spray. This oil actually helps to suffocate the over wintering scale.
-Follow up with another round of spraying of the horticultural oils (7-10 day intervals) when the crawlers have hatched and are moving about the plant, which is generally mid May through mid to late June. You can also use insecticidal soap, Sevin, Eight, Orthene, and Malathion. Bayer or Bonide's Tree and Shrub Insect Control can also be applied (fall or spring) as a soil drench for systemic control. (Scale takes time and persistence to get it under control. In heavy infestations, it may be best to simply remove the plant and replace with a new one.)
Remember the existing scales you see do not just fall off. They have to 'weather off'. So although you may have them under control, these scale shells may last for the entire season. Just keep monitoring your euonymus for any increase in the numbers of visible scale shells.
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What Can I Do About Fungus Gnats On My Houseplants?
You start to water your houseplants, and suddenly hundreds of small dark flying insects begin buzzing around - some even make it up your nose! These obnoxious critters are fungus gnats, and your houseplant's soil can be a bed and breakfast for fungus gnats. So the next question is, how do you get rid of them?
Life Cycle: Fungus Gnat larvae thrive in moist soils and feed on decaying matter, algae, and fungi, and in some cases, may even damage plants by feeding on hair roots, enter the roots and attack the crown or stems of succulent plants. That is why plants which are heavily infested generally lack vigor and may wilt and begin to decline. The adult fungus gnat (which you see flying around) are mostly just a nuisance, although some studies are showing that they may transmit some plant diseases. The entire life cycle of the fungus gnat lasts about 3-4 weeks. An adult female fungus gnat will lay up to 300 eggs on the soil surface which will hatch in 5-7 days. The larvae then live in the top inch or so of the soil, feeding in that soil for 10-14 days, then pupate and emerge as an adult a few days later. The adults live for about 1 week, basically long enough to mate, lay eggs, and try to fly up your nose. So, when you see adult fungus gnats walking on your plant leaves or hundreds of them flying around when you water the plant, it is time to start control measures. And the key to fungus gnat control is water management in the soil.
Methods to help control Fungus Gnats:
-First, isolate the infested plant away from your other plants. Then, reduce your watering! The larvae must have moist soil to complete their life cycle, so water only as needed. Letting the soil dry out - especially the top 2-3 inches - and stay dry for a longer period of time (without harming the plant) will help break their reproductive cycle. Keep your plant's soil on the dry side. This is the most important step in fungus gnat control.
-Use 'Yellow Sticky Traps' to help control the adults of fungus gnats (and white flies). Hang these close to the soil surface. Adults are attracted to the yellow color, and actually stick to the paper! This is very effective in controlling the adults.
-Gently remove the top inch or so of soil around the plant, and replace with fresh, new potting soil, or with coarse sand. Removal of the infested soil also removes larvae. Sand helps prevent development from the egg to the adult, by keeping it drier, as well as providing a media which makes it hard for the adults to emerge. Again, remember to only water as needed. Let the soil dry out before watering again.
-Potato Trap Method: Take slices of potatoes (1-2 inches thick) and nestle them onto the surface of the soil around the plant. Leave them alone for 2-3 days. Fungus gnat larvae are attracted to the slices, will burrow into the slices, and when you remove the potatoes, you also remove the fungus gnat larvae.
-Soil Drenches: Research is now showing a soil drenching of Bt (H-14 strain) is very effective in reducing larvae populations. 'Gnatrol' and 'Knock-Out Gnats' contain this strain.
[Using Malathion as a soil drench may also give some larvae control, but this must be done outdoors, not indoors.]
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How Can I Control Iris Borers?
An infestation of iris borers can wipe out an iris patch in no time! So here are a few suggestions to help control iris borers in your iris patch:
1.) The first and most critical step in controlling iris borers is with cultural controls. Mid to late summer, dig up the iris rhizomes, divide, inspect and pitch borer infested rhizomes. For safety sake, you can soak them (rhizomes to be replanted) briefly in a 10% bleach / 90% water solution before replanting. But basically, you have just physically removed the borer infested rhizomes from the patch. Replant good borer free tubers.
2.) In the fall, remove all debris from around the iris patch, including cutting back any foliage and removing that, so that adult borers (if still in the area) have less favorable conditions for overwintering their eggs. (The females lay eggs on the debris around the iris, as well as the lower iris foliage. And can do so, on other plants nearby.) Again, removal of iris foliage and surrounding debris physically removes over wintering eggs.
3.) If there are iris borer eggs still remaining in the area, they will begin to hatch out mid to late April / early May. If you want to use foliar sprays, do so mid May thru early June. But you can try skipping that (for bee friendly gardening), and instead, simply watch the foliage when the time is right for the borers to hatch from the eggs. Once hatched out, they will move to the top of the emerging iris foliage, bore inside the foliage (close to the top) and begin to tunnel their way down the iris foliage on their way to the iris tuber. You can see their tunnels (brown streaking where the tunnel is), and by placing your thumb on one side of the tunnel and index finger on the other side, you can simply smash those bores before they can move down to the iris tuber. This is very effective!
4.) For added protection, try using systemic insecticides such as Bayers Advanced or Bonides Tree and Shrub Insect Control, which is applied to the soil in early April. This is taken up in both the rhizomes and the foliage, helping to control iris borers from the inside, out.
5.) So, using the above mentioned controls, you should be good to go without using foliar sprays. Good luck!
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Howto Control Ants Naturally
Ants (with exception to fire ants) can be very beneficial to the garden, the soil, and the environment. But they can also be a nuisance. And there are several species of ants living indoors, outdoors, and in wood. So controlling ants will depend on their location, and the type of ant. There are several commercial insecticides and ant baits which can be used indoors and out. These work as individual ant killers, as well as poisons to taken back to the nest to help kill others in that nest. But again, determine the type of ant first, to help determine which commercial insecticide or bait should be used. Visit the web site ohioline.osu.edu / yard & garden / “Ants in and Around the Home” fact sheet for determining ant types in Ohio. [Terro, Ortho and Bonide have great ant control products.]
If you are looking for an alternative to commercial insecticides or baits for deterring or controlling ants, here is a collection of home remedies you may want to try, thanks to the input of many gardeners, garden writers, customers, Aunts, Uncles, friends and neighbors. These do not necessarily work for all types of ants / are not certified practices for ant control / so use at your own risk.
Home Remedies for Deterring Ants
-Ants dislike cucumbers. Try placing slices or peels of cucumbers where ants usually travel. This has been known to repel ants, wasps, flies, and other insects as well.
-Pour lemon juice as an ant barrier.
-Sprinkle Cinnamon as an ant deterrent. Use a mix of Cinnamon and oil to coat the wire or string used to hang hummingbird feeders, to help deter ants.
-Use ground up cloves as an ant deterrent.
-Create a line of baking soda as a barrier.
-Baby powder is used as a repellent.
-Spray a blend of orange peels and water.
-Sprinkle coffee grounds as a barrier to deter ants.
-Soak cotton string in citrus oil and lay string where ants usually walk.
-Draw a line with chalk as an ant barrier (baby powder / talcum powder included).
-Use vinegar as an ant barrier.
-Dry mint or ground cloves will deter ants.
-Planting mint, catnip, pennyroyal, sage, and tansy may help repel ants.
Home Remedies for Controlling Ants
-Repeated flooding of nests will kill some and cause the rest to relocate.
-Pour boiling water down into their ground nests / mounds.
-Pour soapy water down nests or on mounds.
-Dig up the colony and scatter. Pour hot or soapy water down nest.
-Pour a vinegar water mix down into the nest or mound.
-Mix 2 ounces Orange Oil, teaspoon of liquid soap, and 3 ounces molasses in one gallon water. Drench the ant mound.
-Mix 1/3 boric powder + 1/3 corn meal + 1/3 powdered sugar. Put in jar lids or aluminum boats and place where ants travel or near nests (if dry).
-Sprinkle Instant Grits near the nest or mound (not during rainy days). This one gets great reviews from folks dealing with fire ants as well.
-Sprinkle Corn meal near the nest of mound (not during rainy days).
-Sprinkle Nutra Sweet on the mound (not during rainy days).
-Spray ants with soapy water in a spray bottle.
-Sprinkle diatomaceous earth where ants travel and around mounds /nests.
-Mix 1 teaspoon boric acid with 1/3 cup apple-mint jelly – place small dabs where ant activity has been seen (indoors). Caution – Boric acid is toxic – keep away from pets and kids.
-Mix 1/8 teaspoon powdered borax and sugar and place near nest or mounds (not during rainy days).
-Mix 3 cups water, one cup sugar, and 4 teaspoons boric acid powder. Pour over a cotton wad in a small jar. Place lid on jar, with several holes in lid, large enough for ants to crawl in and out.
-Mix equal parts borax and confectioner sugar to make a paste.
NOTE: These are home remedies, not tested or proven successful in any labs or certified by any agency. So use these at your own risk. Again, there are commercially made / tested / certified / labeled / registered ant baits and sprays for control of ants indoors and out. Dealing with ants outdoors should be done only if the ants are causing serious problems. Be sure to caulk cracks and crevices, fix torn screens, etc, to help prevent ants from entering the home.
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Gardening with the Bees
Most of the time, when we see a bee, our initial reaction is to kill it. And if you have been stung before, you know it can hurt. So naturally you become defensive, especially if you are allergic to bee stings. But as best we can, we need to change our thinking from defense to offense, as our honey bee (and other pollinators!) populations continue to decline to alarmingly low numbers. Without our bees and their pollinating abilities, we would not have most of the food we eat. In fact, one bite of every three we take was dependent on a honey bee for pollination.
What is causing the decline? There are many factors including mites, viruses and other diseases, chemical exposure, lack of nutrition (limited supply of good pollen and nectar sources), and of course, Colony Collapse Disorder.
What can you do to help? Although most backyard gardeners ca not do anything about the mites, viruses, diseases and over all Colony Collapse Disorder, we can do in our own backyards to help increase honey bees and other pollinators within our yards and neighborhoods.
Buy local honey: Help support your local bee keepers by purchasing locally produced honey and other honey related products. The honey is often more fresh and will contain vitamins and minerals that some commercially produced honey may lack.
Garden for the bees: -Plant nectar rich plants in your garden, patio pots, window boxes, etc. -Try to create bee areas that are in full sun, and protected from the wind. -Make sure there are plants flowering at all times for the bees to work on. -Many weeds are an excellent source of nectar and pollen (dandelions and clover are great!). When possible let them flower for the bees to use, then pull or get rid of the weeds. -Try planting both native and non native nectar and pollen sources. Flowering shrubs, perennials, annuals, vegetables and herbs can all be great sources of nectar and pollen. -Provide a source of water. Bee favorites include lavender, milkweed, daisies, coreopsis, crocus, Alliums, chives, catmint, salvia, sage, gayfeather, Penstemon digitalis, sedum, goldenrod, lambs ears, thyme, zinnias, etc. Trees and shrubs include crab apples, edible peaches and apples, hawthorn, flowering cherry, spirea, butterfly plant, caryopteris, etc.
Build it and they will come: Install bee nesting boxes and allow space along the edge of your garden to encourage the native bee populations. The solitary bee species that nest in boxes, hollow stems and ground will not swarm and do not sting.
Protect swarms: If a swarm of honeybees happen to visit your yard and garden, do not panic! They are usually not aggressive. Give them time to move on, or call your local Extension office or Police to get phone numbers for local beekeepers that will gladly come and remove the hive safely and transport it elsewhere. You can often find people on swarm lists for your county online as well. Bee clubs:
http://www.agri.ohio.gov/divs/plant/apiary/Docs/Apiary_Docs_CountyBeeContacts.pdf
Reduce the use of pesticides: -If you must spray, use targeted pesticides that will not affect bees, and spray when the bees are least active (early in morning or at dusk when the wind is not blowing). -If possible, do not spray flowering plants that attract the bees, or at least try to treat the leaves only, not the flowers. Treat only plants that are being badly eaten. -Use integrated pest management methods (mechanical and cultural ways to control pests as well as chemical, such as hosing off bad bugs, knocking them off into a bucket of soapy water, using grow covers, hand picking, etc. Apply Insecticidal Soap or Horticultural Oil before getting out the stronger insecticides. Note: Pesticides will vary in their effect on bees. Dusts and wettable powders are more hazardous to bees than solutions or emulsifiable concentrates. Systemics are a safer way to control many harmful pests without sprays, but may contaminate nectar or pollen. Read the label. Many insecticides, like Sevin or Spinosad (an organic spray) may be very low in toxicity to humans and pets, yet are extremely toxic to bees.
Learn more about bees: Take the time to learn more about not only honey bees, but our native bees as well. Educate the kids about the importance of the bees, and how to watch for and avoid bees. (Only female honey bees can sting, and it truly is used as a defense mechanism only.)
So let us all do our part to invite and allow these honey bees to do their jobs in our gardens. And the next time you smack a honey bee, just think about the impact you have made on our world of bees. Can you imagine what the world would 'bee' like without our pollinators? (Thanks to Bar'bee' Bloetscher / OSU for additional bee information.)
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