Archive for the ‘Bugs’ Category

Wild Onions

Tuesday, March 29th, 2011

Problems in the Garden

As the temperatures start to warm, the wild onions (and wild garlic) begin to appear!  And they appear just about anywhere – lawns, landscape beds, gardens, wooded areas, you name it they’ll usually grow there.  For the most part, we’ll see wild onions (garlic) during the cooler times of the year – late winter and spring, and again in the fall.  The plants will flower, aerial bulblets / seeds are formed early summer, and the foliage then generally dies back (bulbs go dormant).  So, how to control them?  In the garden, landscape beds, or lawn, physical removal works nicely as long as you dig out the bulbs, bulblets, and root system.  You must get everything.  And assuming no seeds were dropped in that area, this should work. They can also be sprayed with Roundup, Kleenup, etc, in landscape beds or the garden, but be sure to use a surfactant to help penetrate the waxy coating on the outside of the foliage.  It may take a couple applications, but these will eventually kill them foliage, bulbs and roots.  In the lawn, it can be a bit tougher as these non-selective herbicides will also kill the grass. Cultural practices in the lawn can help quite a bit (keeping it full and thick).  Physical removal works.  And there are some herbicides labeled for their control in the lawn – be sure to read the label to make sure wild onions are listed for control.  Bonide’s Weed Beater Ultra does a very good job on wild onions in the lawn, and can be used during the cooler times of the season (when many other weed killers are not effective).  Again, may take a couple apps, but does a good job in eventual control of existing plants (remember their seeds may lie dormant for a long time before coming back up).  One last note: these plants are highly edible, and very tasty in the earlier stages!  Makes sure they haven’t been sprayed with non edible chemicals, and if not, feel free to eat.  Removal of the foliage over time will weaken the bulbs down below.  And remember this – green onions are 99 cents at the grocery, free in your backyard!  If you can’t beat ‘em, eat ‘em!

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Grub Control in the Lawn

Monday, March 21st, 2011

Problems in the Garden

Grub Control in Lawns – Many times we get folks who say they had high grub populations last summer / fall and want to known what to do this spring.  Just a reminder that grubs go deep into the soil to over winter, then move back up as the soil warms to eventually emerge as an adult beetle.  There are many species of grubs / beetles, and will emerge at different times.   So, using grub ‘controls’ in the spring can be tricky, and usually not all that effective.  Plus spring grub damages are generally minimal.  But, if one wants to treat for grubs in the spring, use a grub killer (curative), not a grub preventer.  Sevin, Dylox, 24 HR Grub Killer, etc, are examples of what to use in the spring after the soils warm and the grubs have moved closer to the soil surface.  These are generally applied no later than early May.  Yes, they need to be watered in well to be effective, and could take 10-14 days before grubs start to die. 

‘Curative’ controls in many cases are not as effective as ‘preventative’ controls, which are applied after the existing grubs emerge as adult beetles.  (Applied June / July).  Grub preventers are very effective controlling the small grubs of all beetle species hatching from their eggs thru their earlier grub stages (mid to late summer).  Applied in late May, they may also help control other lawn insects in bluegrass lawns, but later applications (June / July) are usually best for grub prevention.  Last but not least – although figures have varied, a healthy lawn can support 10-12 grubs per square feet without showing grub damages.  So keeping a full healthy lawn can help minimize grub issues.

Protect your Ash Trees from the Emerald Ash Borer!  Visit www.natorp.com or call 398-4769 to find out how we can help!

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Bugs

Wednesday, March 16th, 2011

Problems in the Garden

Nothing bugging yet, but it won’t be too long.  Just like last year, let’s make a promise for 2011 and beyond that when a bug (or disease) problem arises, we identify the bug (or disease), determine amount of damages possible, whether action is actually needed, and then what the options are for control or suppression, all the while, keeping the good bugs in mind, including those precious bees.  Promise?

Now is the time for dormant sprays if needed, as well as getting close to soil drenching with Bonide’s or Bayer’s Tree and Shrub Insect Control, for controlling problems with scale, leaf miners, adelgids, borers, boxwood psyllid and more.  Yes, that includes treating Ash trees for the Emerald Ash borer, and pines for White Pine Weevil.  As always, read the labels and follow the directions.

Check your houseplants for bug problems.  Just looked at a Ficus tree with scale and mites, and my indoor ivy is loaded with aphids (just overnight)!  Don’t forget that your indoor plants would love a few minutes in the shower.  Luke warm water – they love a good rinsing.  Gets rid of the dust, knocks off bugs, and the plants love the humidity and the shower itself.

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Buggy Joe Report

Monday, March 7th, 2011

Problems in the Garden

It won’t be long until Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is out of hibernation, but in the meantime, we wanted to remind you about the Emerald Ash Borer, that is quickly infesting and destroying all species of the Ash trees, not only here in Ohio, but is moving across the United States.  It has the ability to wipe out all the Ash trees in N. America!  Unfortunately at this time there is no way to stop its spread, BUT, you can protect the Ash trees in your yard (and community) from EAB infestation.  There are several options for Ash tree protection, from soil drenching of labeled systemic insecticides (‘Imidicloprid’ found in  Bayer or Bonide’s Tree and Shrub Insect Control – lasts one year) to systemic bark sprays, to tree trunk injections (using Tree-age) which is showing 2-3 year protection.  Bottom line – you can save your Ash trees from the devastating EAB!   For more information about the Emerald Ash Borer, as well as how Natorp’s can help save your Ash trees, visit www.natorp.com .  Insecticide applications times are coming up quickly (starting this spring), so be ready when the time comes.  Save your Ash!

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Problems in the Garden

Sunday, February 27th, 2011

Problems in the Garden

Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is still in hibernation, but will be waking up very shortly.  In the meantime, we’ve got a great suggestion for you.  Get out side and go on a bagworm hunt!  Bagworms are evergreen eating machines, and in many cases go unrecognized as in small numbers they appear to be cones hanging from the plant.  But as needles begin to disappear, and more and more of these cone shaped bags begin to appear, then you realize that something isn’t right.

Bagworms over winter cone-like brown bags (1 -1 ½ inches long) – or should I say the female and her eggs over winter in the bags.  If the bag is empty, that was the male who pupated into a winged adult last summer, mated with the females and eventually died.  

If the bag is solid, there is a female inside, and usually 500 or more tiny bagworm eggs.  Yep, 500 or more eggs are in each of the bags containing the females.  And when they hatch out in late may / early June, they either stay on the evergreen or get into the air and fly to new sources of food.

So, by scouting your landscape now, and hand picking the bagworms, squashing them as you pick and then throwing them away, you are physically eliminating them before they have a chance to hatch.  Now, chances are you won’t find all the bags, or there may be bagworm bags too high for you to reach.  Just wait until early June, and begin monitoring the plants.  When you see the baby bagworm moving on the plant, a spray with Bt or Spinosad (Capt. Jacks Deadbug Brew) will take care of them.  And the great thing about these controls, they’re all natural, all organic!   So get out and hunt down all the dreaded bagworms in your landscape today, and get ‘em before they get started.

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Cold Weather and Bugs

Monday, December 6th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

I did go and ask ole Buggy Joe to see if he had any last words for 2010.  He said this time of the year he’s always getting asked about the cold weather and how if affects bugs.  “I’ve already gotten a few questions asking if the cold weather will kill insect pests.  In my usual highly informative approach, my answer has been, “yes, and no.”  The “yes” is for insect pests that are living near the edge of their low temperature threshold.  It’s exactly like the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones.  Unfortunately, entomologists haven’t created an “insect hardiness zones” map, but we do know some insects such as bagworms can be affected by low winter temperatures.  That’s why we see fewer numbers the further north we travel in Ohio.  However, since bagworm eggs can easily survive the low temperatures we’ve experienced thus far, the weather hasn’t yet helped us out for next season.  The same is probably true for the other “edge” insect pests.

The “no” is for insects that actually benefit from low temperatures because they are genetically programmed to survive them.  Japanese beetle grubs are a good example.  They feed heavily in the fall and accumulate fat for the winter – I can relate!  Since they are cold-blooded, their metabolism is linked to temperature.  The colder it gets in the winter, the less fat they burn.  On the other hand, the warmer it gets, the more fat they burn.  Since they don’t feed during the winter, warm temperatures can cause a serious problem for them – they can eventually run out of fat reserves and starve to death.  This is why we see fewer numbers of Japanese beetles the further south we drive.”  As usual, Joe is never at a loss for final quotes!  So a special thanks to you, Joe Boggs, wherever you are, pupating for the winter.

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Buggy Joe Boggs Report

Tuesday, November 9th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

Buggy Joe Boggs is on winter hiatus, so in the meantime, we’ll address a few issues still happening out there.  Had an email question last week about oak leaves having blonde colored fuzzy balls on the leaves that were actually clogging the mower filter when they exploded from the blades.  These are probably oak sower gall, caused by a wasp that stings the leaf buds in the spring.  No harm to the tree (just looks funny on the leaves), no sprays recommended, and keep changing the lawn mower filter as needed!  Populations may be high one year and nothing the next.

Southwest Ohio Drop Day is Saturday Nov. 13!  It’s a National day for collection and proper disposal of unwanted or expired medication.  Visit www.hcswcd.org for more info and drop off locations for Hamilton, Clermont, and Warren County, or visit   

www.americanmedicinechest.com.

Want to learn more about the Emerald Ash Borer?  Visit www.emeraldashborer.info .

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Buggy Joe Boggs Report

Tuesday, October 26th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

Before we get started, this is Buggy Joe’s last report before he goes into winter hibernation.  So we just wanted to say “Thank You” to Joe and everyone at the OSU Extension for all you do for us!  THANK YOU!  Now, have the best winter hibernation of your life!  (See you in 2011.)

This week, Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting unusually low reports of yellowjackets around the state (yellowjacket queen over winters alone in a protected location like inside barns, sheds, under loose bark, etc), crane flies (mosquito on steroids looking critter) making their late summer appearances, home invaders flowing to, yes you guessed it, invade homes, now is the time to spray peach trees (or within the next month) with a fungicide) to help control peachleaf curl, and last not but not least, a reminder to keep watering during these times of drought.   [And with that, Buggy Joe will begin to ready his resting area for the annual winter hibernation.  Have a long and good winter snooze BJB.)

-Catch the final 2010 Buggy Joe Boggs Report this Saturday 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station.  Thanks again Joey!

-According to our local Witchdoctor Rita, Halloween lore said that to cure the plague and leprosy, one might swallow a buttered spider.   How about that one, Buggy Joe?

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Buggy Joe Boggs Report

Tuesday, October 19th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

This week Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is off doing some final research, as well as preparing his special spot for pupating over the winter.  Last week, one of our email subscribers asked that I ask Joe why she is seeing so many cucumber beetles late this summer in her landscape and flower beds.  BJB – “Both the stripped and spotted cucumber beetles practice behavior that sometimes puts them outside vegetable gardens where we expect to find them.  Although the adults feed on the foliage of cucumbers, muskmelons, and watermelons, they will also feed on pollen and nectar.  So, it is not unusual to find the beetles on flowers in the landscaping and the numbers of beetles found on flowers typically rise as the growing season comes to an end.  This is because their vegetable host plants have started to decline and the beetles are trying to load-up on carbohydrates to make it through the winter.  Which brings us to their second behavior that causes them to appear in our landscapes; the insects spend the winter as adult beetles in protected locations and they will overwinter inside crevices in buildings.  When we combine these two behaviors, it means that high numbers of beetles may appear on flowers near homes towards the end of the season.  Thankfully, the beetles don’t feed on the foliage of the flowering landscape plants, so they are more of an aesthetic nuisance problem in landscapes.”

Note:  According to new research, it looks like the tag teaming of a virus and a fungus has become a consistent factor in samples collected from honeybees affected by Colony Collapse Disorder!  Still many questions to be answered, but we continue to try and find the problem to stop the decline of our honeybee populations.  So in the meantime, bee friendly in the garden!

And it looks like stink bugs are continuing to become more of a pest in the garden, with half of Pennsylvania’s peach crop destroyed by them.  Apples, tomatoes and other fruits and vegetables have been severely hit, and unfortunately, the stink bugs populations seem to be on the rise.

-Catch the Buggy Joe Boggs Report Saturdays at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station.

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Buggy Joe Boggs Report

Tuesday, October 12th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

This week, BJB (Buggy Joe Boggs / OSU Extension) is reporting home invaders practically knocking on the doors to come inside for the winter (clover mites, hackberry psyllids, boxelder bugs, stink bugs, western conifer seed leaf-footed bugs, attic flies (cluster flies), face flies, elm leaf beetles, multicolored Asian lady beetles, as well as Ringo Starr and Paul McCartney.  Joe suggests inspecting the home for foundation cracks, rips and tears in screens, missing caulk, etc for openings where these critters can try to get in.  And if they actually knock on the door or ring the bell, pretend you’re not home (like Joe Boggs’ neighbors do when he comes to visit.).  BJB is also reporting cases of Frost Ring (russet ring) on apples and pears (from frosts in the spring – usually affects color of skin and not fruit), nectria canker on Sassafras, large ichneumon wasps (they find the larvae of the horntail sawfly in tree bark and inject their eggs into the larvae!), squirrels eating the tops off nearly mature acorns to get at the acorn weevil larvae (m-m-m, nothing better than a fresh weevil larvae), and adult iris borers now mating and laying eggs to infect your iris tubers next spring.

Catch The Buggy Joe Boggs Report Saturdays at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station

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