Garden Success Tip of the Week

Watering the Container Garden While You’re Away – If you’re a container gardener, then you’re committed to watering.  But what happens when you need to go away for a few days?  Well, here are a few hints to keep your plants watered, without having someone stop by and do it for you.

1.) If possible, group your plants (indoors or out) together in a semi shadier location.  Grouped plants shade each other, won’t dry out as quickly, and the shadier location helps slow down water loss as well.

2.) If you used Soil Moist when first planting your containers, great!  These small crystals absorb 200 times their weight in water, and re-release it back to the plants roots when the soil dries out, cutting your watering as much as in half.  If you don’t have Soil Moist in the soil, it can be added by punching several long holes with a pencil or dowel, and then dropping a few crystals in each hole.

3.) Water your plants thoroughly just before you leave, whether they need it or not.  That way the soil, the plant, and the Soil Moist have been recharged with maximum amounts of water.

4.) Supplement additional water needed by adding an Aqua Cone or 2 to each container.  These cones, when attached to a 2 liter bottle filled with water, will slow drip water into the soil over an extended period of time, adding moisture to the soil as it is used up by the plant.  Again, extending the amount of time before the next watering would be needed.

5.) And lastly, if you’re going to be gone for a week, this is one time, and the only time, we will suggest placing a saucer under the pot and leaving water in the saucer.  Again, this is the only time we would recommend doing this, but it will extend the time before the next watering is needed.

In some cases doing this may last 2-3 days or more without adding more water.  Try to experiment before you leave, to make sure you know how long it will last for your plants.  Soil Moist and Aqua Cones – two great ways to help you water, whether you’re home or on the road.  PS. If you continue to grow more and more in containers, you may want to consider installing a drip watering system.  Fairly reasonable in price, saves you a lot of time watering, and can be placed on a timer in case you aren’t home or don’t have someone to help water.

Garden Success Tip of the Week

Gardening can be a lot of fun.  It can also be hard work, and take a lot of time, but in then end, fun and rewarding.  So today we’ll take a look at a few gardening products that will help save you time in the garden.

Have weedy grasses growing thru your groundcovers, annuals and perennials?  Fertilome’s Over the Top, Ortho’s Garden Grass Killer, and Bonide’s Grass Beater to the rescue!  These products can be sprayed over a multitude of desirable plants, killing the weedy grasses growing amongst them, yet leaving the good plants alone.  Make sure you read the label of plants listed that can be sprayed over, and if your plant isn’t on the list, test it on a small area just to be sure it’s safe.  And remember, these products control weedy grasses only.

Have suckers growing out of the base of that ornamental tree that you’re always bending down and cutting off?  Monterrey Chemicals ‘Sucker Stopper’ to the rescue!  Sucker Stopper is a growth retardant.  Spray it where suckers usually appear, on top of existing suckers, or cut them off and then spray.  Sucker Stopper prohibits re-growth for up to 3 months or more.

Never sure how much fertilizer your container plants may need over the summer season?  Osmocote to the rescue!  Osmocote is a slow release fertilizer, that when added to the soil, slowly releases a nice feeding to your container plants all summer long.  For some plants, it’s all they need, but others may need additional feedings thru the season.  But you can count on Osmocote to lightly feed all season long.

Tired of watering those containers?  Then it’s Soil Moist to the rescue!  When you add these small crystals to the potting soil, they absorb water, swelling up to 20-30 times their size.  When the potting soil dries out, Soil Moist releases water back to the plant cutting your watering time almost in half.  And the swelling and shrinking of the Soil Moist helps to keep the potting soil from becoming compacted.  By the way, if you don’t have Soil Moist in your containers, you can add it.  Simply take a dowel or stick and poke several holes down into the soil.  Sprinkle in a few Soil Moist crystals, and you’ve now created several water channels to help cut down on your watering times.

Garden Success Tip of the Week

Using Epsom Salt in the Garden – You may have heard or hear about this old time home remedy as an addition to the soil for gardening successes, especially in the vegetable garden.  It has been applied to tomatoes, peppers, roses and more, hoping to produce more flowers, higher yields and greener plants.  And although most boxes of Epsom salt do not have uses in the garden on the label, it is now being manufactured, boxed and specially labeled for use in the garden.

What is it? – Epsom Salt is a natural mineral, used for treating a range of human and animal ailments, as well as a fertilizer.  Chemically, it is hydrated magnesium sulfate.  Magnesium is needed for seed germination and the production of chlorophyll, as well as improving uptake of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur, as well as helping to make the plants thicker and bushier. Low levels of magnesium in the soil may cause yellowing of leaves between the veins, leaf curling, stunted growth, and lack of sweetness to the fruit.  Causes and effects of deficient magnesium vary, but we do know tomatoes, peppers and roses need high doses of magnesium for optimum growth.  Sulfur is a key element in plant growth, as well as assisting in giving some vegetables like broccoli and onions their flavors.   It too contributes to chlorophyll production and making primary nutrients more available to the plants.    There are many ways to add both to the soils, but one advantage of using Epsom Salt is that it has a high solubility and is quickly taken up by plants (roots or foliage).  Its high solubility also makes it hard to overuse, won’t burn the plants, and is safe around kids and pets.  Note:  Unless your soil is magnesium deficient, adding Epsom Salt isn’t needed.  It’s always best to have you soils tested first, just so you’ll know for sure!

How do I use it? – Epsom Salt can be used as a soil amendment or as a foliar spray.  If you purchased the Epsom Salt labeled for use in the garden, follow the directions on the label.  If you are using regularly boxed Epsom Salt, here are a few of the ‘collected’ recommended rates for use (and trust us, they will vary from gardener to gardener).  Again, these are rates recommended by other gardeners, or Epsom council.

[Visit www.epsomsaltcouncil.org for more info]

Roses – Apply ½ cup around plants in the early spring, and ½ cup in the fall.  As a foliar spray, 1 tablespoon per gallon, and spray after leaves fully open in spring, and again during flowering.   Tomatoes and Peppers – Apply 1 tablespoon around each plant at planting.  Then for a foliar spray, dissolve 1 tablespoon in a gallon of water.  This can be used at planting, first flower, and first fruit set, or some will spray every 3-4 weeks.    Garden Startup – Apply 1 cup per 100 sq. feet and mix into the soil.   Trees and Shrubs – Apply one tablespoon per 9 sq. feet, 2-3 times annually.   Lawns – 3 pounds per 1,250 sq. ft.  Houseplants – 2 tablespoons per gallon water   Cut Christmas tree – 1 cup per gallon water – keep water reservoir in stand full!   Note:  There are some plants that do not want this added.  Sage is one.  So again, use with caution.

[You know it’s hot when you can make sun tea instantly.]

Garden Success Tip of the Week

Gardening with the Bees – Most of the time, when we see a bee, our initial reaction is to kill it.  And if you’ve been stung before, you know it can hurt.  So naturally you become defensive, especially if you’re allergic to bee stings.  But as best we can, we need to change our thinking from defense to offense, as our honey bee (and other pollinators!) populations continue to decline to alarmingly low numbers.  Without our bees and their pollinating abilities, we wouldn’t have most of the food we eat.  In fact, one bite of every three we take was dependent on a honey bee for pollination.

What’s causing the decline? There are many factors including mites, viruses and other diseases, chemical exposure, lack of nutrition (limited supply of good pollen and nectar sources), and of course, Colony Collapse Disorder.

What can you do to help? Although most backyard gardeners can’t do anything about the mites, viruses, diseases and over all Colony Collapse Disorder, we can do in our own backyards to help increase honey bees and other pollinators within our yards and neighborhoods.

Buy local honey: Help support your local bee keepers by purchasing locally produced honey and other honey related products.  The honey is often more fresh and will contain vitamins and minerals that some commercially produced honey may lack.

Garden for the bees: -Plant nectar rich plants in your garden, patio pots, window boxes, etc.  -Try to create bee areas that are in full sun, and protected from the wind.  -Make sure there are plants flowering at all times for the bees to work on.   –Many weeds are an excellent source of nectar and pollen (dandelions and clover are great!).  When possible let them flower for the bees to use, then pull or get rid of the weeds.  –Try planting both native and non native nectar and pollen sources.  Flowering shrubs, perennials, annuals, vegetables and herbs can all be great sources of nectar and pollen.  –Provide a source of water.  (Bee favorites include lavender, milkweed, daisies, coreopsis, crocus, Alliums, chives, catmint, salvia, sage, gayfeather, Penstemon digitalis, sedum, goldenrod, lambs ears, thyme, zinnias, etc.  Trees and shrubs include crabapples, apples, edible peaches,  hawthorn, flowering cherry, Spirea, butterfly plant, Caryopteris, etc.)

Build it and they will come: Install bee nesting boxes and allow space along the edge of your garden to encourage the native bee populations.  The solitary bee species that nest in boxes, hollow stems and ground won’t swarm and don’t sting.

Protect swarms: If a swarm of honeybees happen to visit your yard and garden, don’t panic!  They’re usually not aggressive.  Give them time to move on, or call your local Extension office or Police to get phone numbers for local beekeepers that will gladly come and remove the hive safely and transport it elsewhere.  You can often find people on swarm lists for your county online as well.  Bee clubs:

http://www.agri.ohio.gov/divs/plant/apiary/Docs/Apiary_Docs_CountyBeeContacts.pdf

Reduce the use of pesticides: -If you must spray, use targeted pesticides that won’t affect bees, and spray when the bees are least active (early in morning or at dusk when the wind is not blowing).  -If possible, don’t spray flowering plants that attract the bees, or at least try to treat the leaves only, not the flowers.  Treat only plants that are being badly eaten.   –Use integrated pest management methods (mechanical and cultural ways to control pests as well as chemical, such as hosing off bad bugs, knocking them off into a bucket of soapy water, using grow covers, hand picking, etc.  Apply Insecticidal Soap or Horticultural Oil before getting out the stronger insecticides.  Note: Pesticides will vary in their effect on bees.  Dusts and wettable powders are more hazardous to bees than solutions or emulsifiable concentrates.  Systemics are a safer way to control many harmful pests without sprays, but may contaminate nectar or pollen.  Read the label.  Many insecticides, like Sevin or Spinosad (an organic spray) may be very low in toxicity to humans and pets, yet are extremely toxic to bees.

Learn more about bees: Take the time to learn more about not only honey bees, but our native bees as well.  Educate the kids about the importance of the bees, and how to watch for and avoid bees.  (Only female honey bees can sting, and it truly is used as a defense mechanism only.)

So let’s all do our part to invite and allow these honey bees to do their jobs in our gardens.  And the next time you smack a honey bee, just think about the impact you’ve made on our world of bees.  Can you imagine what the world would ‘bee’ like without our pollinators? (Thanks to Bar’bee’ Bloetscher / OSU for additional bee information.)

Garden Success Tips of the Week

Controlling Japanese Beetles (Adults)

What do Japanese beetles look like? – Adult Japanese beetles are metallic green color, oval, and about 3/8 to ½ an inch long, and about ¼ inch wide.  The wing covers are copper brown, and their abdomen has a row of five tufts of white hairs on each side.

Where do Japanese beetles come from and what will they do? – Japanese beetles are the adult stage of grubs in the soil (one of many types of grubs).  They emerge from the ground and begin to feed on plants sometime in June.  They feed on over 400 species of leafy plants, eating leaves, flowers, and sometimes the fruit. They are most active during the warmer parts of the day and especially active on warm, clear, sunny days. Activity usually lasts about 4-6 weeks, after which the beetles gradually die off.  (Individual beetles live about 30-45 days.)  After mating, females lay their eggs in the turf, which hatch into grubs, and feed on turf roots in the soil until cold weather drives them deeper into the soil.  They move back to the top when temperatures warm (spring), and emerge as adults the following June.

One beetle does little damage, but they usually feed in groups, starting at the top of a plant and working down, and group feeding can cause severe damage.  Early arrivals release a hormone, which attracts other adults to the plants.  Females also release an additional sex pheromone to attract males.  Odors released from beetle-damaged leaves also assists in attracting beetles to a particular plant.  And, although Japanese beetle damage looks devastating, their feeding rarely kills plants.     Note:  Although adult beetles typically only make short flights as they move about to feed or lay eggs, they are extremely mobile and have been known to fly as far as 5 miles.

How do I control Japanese beetles? – Cultural Controls:  Don’t plant trees and shrubs that Japanese beetles like.  Japanese and Norway maples, birch, pin oak, rose of Sharon, sycamore, ornamental apples, plums and cherries, roses, willows, lindens, hollyhock, sassafras, grapes, filbert, even poison ivy are a few of their favorite plants.  If you do, just be prepared for ‘possible’ Japanese beetles.  Physical Removal:  Removing them by hand, keeping lower populations, and not allowing beetles to accumulate (beetles attract beetles) will help.  Hand picking, hosing them off (especially early on), or shaking them off the plant (in a bucket of soapy water) early in the morning when the insects are sluggish works great.  Highly valued plants could be covered with cheesecloth, grow covers, or fine netting during the peek of beetle activity.  Chemical Controls:  Many insecticides are labeled for use against Japanese beetle adults.  If you do take this route, 1.) Thoroughly treat foliage and flowers, 2.) Use spreader sticker to increase duration of effectiveness, 3.) Repeated sprayings may be needed (check labels), 4.) Do not spray when bees are active, 5.) Insecticidal soaps will kill adults hit by the spray, but provide no residual protection, 6.) If spraying edibles, check labels for any restrictions.  Insecticides for adult beetles include Eight, Captain Jacks Deadbug Brew, Sevin, Orthene, Rotenone / Pyrethrum sprays, Insecticidal Soaps, Neem Oil (very limited success),  and Merit (if applied to plants 3 weeks in advance, and it will need assistance with other foliar sprays in heavy populations).  Natural Control:  Birds such as grackles, cardinals and larger birds will feed on the adult beetles.    Mechanical Control –Trapping:  There are several types of Japanese beetle traps, with both a floral / food lure and a sex pheromone lure, and can draw in thousands of beetles each day.  Research has shown these traps actually attract more beetles than are caught.  Susceptible plants may be along the flight path of the beetles, and could suffer more than if no traps had been used at all.  If using traps, place them well away from gardens and landscape plants – maybe in the neighbor’s yard!   Note: Because beetles are attracted to favorable plants from a considerable distance, controlling grubs in the lawn will not protect landscape plants from adult feeding.

Controlling Grubs in the Turf

What are Grubs? – Grubs are the C-shaped larvae of a group of beetles, typically found just below the soil’s surface.  Japanese Beetles, May or June Beetles, Masked Chafers, Asiatic Garden Beetles, are examples of beetles in this group.  Although each has its own characteristics, grubs have stout, grayish to white C shaped bodies with brown heads, ranging in size from 3/8 to 1 inch long.  C shaped grubs is one of the stages of the beetle lifecycle [eggs (typically laid in the summer months), larvae (the C shaped grub – late summer thru spring), pupae (stage just before emerging from the ground into an adult – spring thru early summer), and the adult – late spring thru summer].

What do Grubs do? – Grubs eat organic matter including the roots of plants (especially turf – typically not a major problem for other plants).  They will feed from mid summer until cooler weather forces them to move deeper into the soil for the winter.  During the spring, they move back to the upper soil, lightly feeding before pupating and emerging from the soil as an adult beetle.

How do I know if I have Grubs? – Grub damage to the turf first appears to be drought stress, as the turf appears off color, wilts in the sun, thins out, and eventually begins dying in large patches.  The turf can feel spongy and in many cases be rolled back like loose carpet.  This typically occurs late summer and early fall.  (Grub damage in the spring is generally less, due to lighter feeding, and the turf vigorously growing to mask over grub damage.)  You can check for grubs by pealing back the turf and taking a look.  Remember that populations of 6 – 10 (or so) grubs per square foot in a healthy lawn typically will not show any grub damage.  Higher populations may require treatment.   Note: Low grub populations may not show observable turf damages, but predatory animals such as flocks of blackbirds, or skunks, raccoons, opossums, and moles may find your turf attractive if grubs are present.  (Although they also feed on many other soil insects, including earthworms.  Do not treat for grubs if you have moles.  Only treat for grubs if grubs are a problem to your turf.).

How do I control Grubs? – Cultural Controls: The first step is to maintain a healthy lawn.  A healthy lawn means fewer weeds, less disease, and fewer insect problems.  Consider using turf type tall fescues, as they show a higher tolerance of grubs than Ky. Bluegrasses or perennial ryes.  Only irrigate the lawn during the early summer as needed (thorough deep soaking, then dry out before watering again); high moisture levels are important for beetles laying eggs as well as egg development.    Chemical Controls: Preventative controls means the insecticide is applied as insurance before potential grub problems develop.  These products are applied one time to the turf, anytime mid May through July, last all season, and are there to stop grubs in the early stages (egg and newly hatched) before damages can occur.  These products include:  BONIDE’S GRU BEATER, SCOTT’S GRUB EX or BAYER’S ADVANCED LAWN SEASON-LONG GRUB CONTROL.  Curative controls are applied late summer (after the eggs have hatched and grubs are present), and have a short residual effect.  These products include: DYLOX

*Always read and follow the label / directions on each recommended product before use.  Actual grub control will vary due to timing, soils, moisture, thatch, and other environmental factors.  Remember, there is never 100% grub control.