Archive for June, 2009
Thursday, June 25th, 2009
Here is the latest from our “Hippy Dippy Weather Man”, certified arborist and amateur meteorologist Ron Rothhaas:
Building central U.S. heat wave to affect Cincinnati – A heat wave is underway in North America, centered in the great plains of the U.S.. Cincinnati is on the eastern edge of this heat wave. While extreme heat and worsening drought are affecting Texas, with very hot air into Missouri, this pattern will lead to very warm and relatively dry weather in the Ohio valley. Most of the Ohio valley had decent rains last week. Only scattered showers are possible this week along with summertime heat, so things may dry out as the week goes on. Watch plants and new trees for signs of needing water. -Ronald E. Rothhaas, Jr. / Arbor Doctor, LLC
Tags: gardening, heatwave cincinnati, heatwave gardening
Posted in Weather | No Comments »
Thursday, June 25th, 2009
My favorite bug, the bagworm, has hatched and are beginning to secretly reek havoc on unsuspecting evergreens and some leafy plants. They are small right now – maybe only a 1/4 of an inch long – but the just keep getting bigger every day and eating more and more until the needles are gone! I have discovered them on a large planting of weeping white pines (you have to look close, but the browning needles were a hint to look), and when they’re this size, they are very susceptible to sprays of Bt, or the new Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew (both a form a Eco-friendly bacteria). So this morning, we will spray the weeping pines with the new spray and see what the Captain can do! I’ll report back next week. In the meantime, check your evergreens for these miniature needle eating machines! (Junipers, pines, spruce, chamaecyparis, arborvitae, etc.) PS – I found a few on the closely planted Knock Out rose leaves as well, so they will get on leafy plants. But, its usually not as much of an issue as those plants recover – many of the needled plants do not (after severe damages).
This week, Buggy Joe Boggs is reporting bagworm hatch (duh, Joe, we already covered it!), increased reports of wild turkey damages in suburban gardens (another reason why you don’t drink and garden), iron chlorosis showing now in many trees including oaks, river birch and sweetgum, black medic showing up in many thinned out lawns (looks like clover with a yellow flower), pear sawfly on, nope not pears, crabapples (got cha!), arborvitae leafminer tip damage, mites on junipers, needle blight on Austrina pine, canker on Witchita Blue juniper, abiotic problems of holly leaf drop, leaf scorch on dogwood and red oak, and iron deficiences in river birch, gypsy moth caterpillars out and about, hickory tussock moth feeding on, nope, American elm leaves (got cha again! – they actually feed on a wide range of trees including hickory), magnolia serpentine leaf mining caterpillars on, yes, you got it this time, magnolias, WARM SEASON MITE populations now starting to rise, with the most notoriuous being the two-spotted spider mite (symptoms include tiny yellow spots on leaves which produces leaf chlorosis, browning or bronzing, and subsequent defoliation (burning bush deal with this every summer – also seeing it more and more on roses), sod webworm cases (looks like a cigarette wrapper on the grass) showing up in lawns, as well as the adult moths flying out of the lawn, masked chafers have begun to emerge, reports of tiny pockets of Japanese beetles are starting to come in, and last but not least, a reminder to NOT over feed your tomato plants, which could result in the over abundance of foliage but not tomatoes (or smaller fruit set).
Catch The Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station (550AM).
Helpful Links: www.emeraldashborer.info and www.gardenswithwings.com
Tags: bagworms, bagworms hatching
Posted in Bugs, Diseases | No Comments »
Thursday, June 25th, 2009
Hey Ron, is it Grub Ex time?“ -Why, yes, yes it is! Grub preventers can actually be applied anytime mid May thru sometime in July. Mid May also covers a few nasty bugs that can affect bluegrass lawns. Remember to make sure you’re using a “Grub Preventer” not a “Grub Killer”. Preventers (kill grubs at an early stage) last all summer (about 90 days) where as the killers are a one shot application (used early or late in the season). ‘GrubEX’ by Scotts and ‘Annual Grub Beater’ by Bonide are the products you’re looking for to be used a season long grub preventers.
“I remember reading about a fungus that looks like vomit on mulch beds. I have sprayed with a fungicide, and seem to remember you saying chlorox would work as well. Should I remove it after I spray it?” -That fungus is actually a slime mold and is called “Dog Barf (Vomit) Fungus, also known as egg batter mold. Despite being commonly referred to as the dog vomit fungus, it is not a fungus at all. Slime molds can be described as yellow, slimy, multinucleate bodies called plasmodia, simply stated; a big colony of slimy blobs! The reason the yellow slime appears to move across our flower beds or lawns is because it really does. If enough moisture and food is available the slime could move up to several feet a day. As the environment around the slime mold dries out the movement stops and so to does the slime. As it dries it develops spore-producing structures and its color fades from the bright yellow to a dull earthy brown. As the new spores develop they are disbursed into the wind and the entire organism disappears. Because slime molds do not cause diseases of plants or turf, there are no pesticides available or other products recommended for their control in the landscape. The best way to get rid of slime mold is to break it up and dry it out. If the slime is still moist, simply rake it up with the substrate it is growing on and dispose of it in the garbage. Do not use fungicides NOR Chlorox to get rid of these slimy blobs!
“The bottom leaves on my container tomatoes are turning yellow. Should I be spraying for a disease?” -Not necessarily, especially if they’re growing in containers and you’re using potting soil. Chances are its just a natural thing happening. Mine will do that as well. By the time mine are 3 feet tall, I will have picked the bottom 10-12 inches of leaves off the plant. This is actually a good practice if you’re growing them in the ground, as this keeps the bottom leaves away from the soil and the possibility of soil born diseases splashing up onto the plant. Limbing them up, as well as a good mulching around the plants, can really help reduce leaf diseases (soil born) on tomatoes growing in the ground. But again, they will naturally yellow a bit on the bottoms. Just to be sure, you can always take a leaf to your local garden store for someone to see.
“Hey Ron – have you set the dates for this year’s Nursery Outlet Sale yet?” -Yes we have, but we don’t usually let the cat out of the bag until a little later. But if you’ll keep it to yourself, the sale opens to the public Sept. 18,19,20,25,26,27. We added an extra day this year. But that’s between me and you. Okay?
Readers Comments:
“For the lady with the hydrangeas that don’t bloom – too much shade will cause that to happen as well.” (-Good point! I forgot to mention they were on the SE side of the house. But you are right – that can be an issue!)
Tags: bagworms, dog barf fungus, grub preventer, tomatoes containers
Posted in Diseases, Questions of the Week | No Comments »
Thursday, June 25th, 2009
June 25, 2009
During late June and July, you seem to notice a loss of needles on your evergreens, and an increase in cone-like structures hanging from the branches. Upon closer inspection, you realize the cone-like structures are actually moving, and devouring your evergreen’s needles! The culprit – the common Bagworm.
Description – Bagworms are caterpillars that during June, July and early August, make distinctive spindle-shaped bags comprised of leaves, needles, sticks, bark, etc, and actually live inside the bag (mature bags can reach 1 ½ to 2 inches long). They carry it with them as they move around both deciduous plants and evergreens feeding on the foliage. They are especially damaging to evergreens (juniper, spruce, pines, arborvitae, cedar, cypress, etc.) as stripping the plants of their foliage may result in death of the plant. And they largely go unnoticed as they do resemble pine cones! The female remains in the caterpillar form, but the male eventually develops into a winged bee like creature (August). He mates with the female, resulting in the fertilized female laying from 300-1,000 eggs in her bag. The bag is then attached to a plant branch with a silk-like band, to hang in place over winter. Those eggs over winter in that bag, and hatch out late May and early June, starting the entire bagworm process all over again. These tiny bagworms are so small, they are carried in the winds to other evergreens (ballooning stage) or they may stay on the plant where they hatched.
Control:
1.) Hand Picking – Physical removal is a great way to rid your plants of bagworms. Whether during the feeding times or over the winter and early spring before the eggs hatch (which happens late May thru mid June), picking the bags off the plants and destroying them stops the bagworms before they ever get started. Destroy the bags by smashing, soaking in soapy water, or burning.
2.) Chemical Control – There are no preventative sprayings for preventing bagworm infestations. You can only spray for control after the bagworms have been noticed actively feeding on the plants. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) and Captain Jacks Deadbug Brew are very effective against the early stages of bagworms, and very much environmentally safe. Spray these towards mid to late June after all bagworms have hatched. Other insecticides will also control bagworms, and remember that earlier sprays against younger larvae are more effective rather than later against older larvae. And the silk bags will become an impermeable protectant for the bagworm, so spraying means making sure the foliage is soaked. Orthene, Eight, Sevin, Malathion, Rotenone, etc are a few of the many insecticides listed for bagworm control. For all sprays, two applications may be needed for total control. If you do not realize that there is a bagworm problem until late in the season, forget the sprays. Hand pick what you can, and wait until next mid June to spray the newly hatched bagworms when they are most susceptible to sprays. Use this tactic for controlling bagworms in the tops of tall evergreens that cannot be hand picked. Wait for hatching, and then spray as needed.
Tags: bagworms, evergreens
Posted in Bugs, Success Tip | No Comments »
Thursday, June 25th, 2009
Yardboy, it’s been one of those weeks already – I am still so busy planting seedlings of veggies and herbs that I hardly have time to think about supper. But we have to eat, and here’s a recipe I turn to when the days are long but the time to cook is short. Oh, and guess what? I got my first 2 tomatoes yesterday!
PASTA WITH UNCOOKED PUTTANESCA SAUCE
1 pound penne or bow tie pasta, boiled and kept warm
4 cups diced tomatoes
1/2 cup Calamata or Greek olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons small capers, rinsed and drained
1 bunch parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes or less to taste
1-2 teaspoons anchovy paste
Salt to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Romano cheese – a generous amount to sprinkle on top
Combine tomatoes, anchovies, olives, capers, parsley, garlic, hot pepper, salt and olive oil. Stir gently to combine. You can let this marinate for up to 1 hour. Toss with hot pasta. Serve at once.
Rita Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy’s Regional Culinary Professional Herbalist www.abouteating.com
Tags: cooking herbs and vegetables
Posted in From the Garden to the Kitchen | No Comments »
Thursday, June 25th, 2009
 Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Japanese Forest Grass June is Perennial Gardening Month, and I would be a little remiss if I didn’t mention (I know I have already) the 2009 Perennial of the Year one more time. It’s Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, or commonly known as Golden Japanese Forest Grass. This ornamental grass features a graceful, cascading, flowing form and golden bamboo-like foliage, which will turn a reddish pink hue in colder temperatures. ‘Aureola’ grows one to two feet high by 2-3 feet wide; hardy Zones 5-9 (but has overwintered in 4), and does exceptionally well as a specimen plant, massed plantings, border plant, and does a great job growing in containers! And what’s even more unique about this plant, is that it grows in the shade! Yep, sun or shade is just fine for the 2009 Perennial of the Year. By the way, if you promise to keep a secret, I’ll let you in on the 2010 Perennial of the Year. It’s ‘Baptisia’ – but don’t tell anyone that I told you.
Chinkapin Oak -I have also failed to mention much about the 2009 Urban Tree of the Year. It is Quercus muehlenbergii ‘Chinkapin Oak’, a large growing oak, reaching 40-50 feet (plus), medium in growth rate, 4-6 inch oblong coarsely toothed lustrous dark yellowish green leaves (yellow to orange brown fall color), ¾ inch acorn, no serious diseases and insects, becomes a very attractive tree with age, and is hardy Zones 4 to 7. Yes, Natorp’s does grow it, but only a few each year, basically due to fact that no one (public) really knows the tree very well. But when you see one growing, you’ll love it and understand why it is the 2009 Urban Tree of the Year. You’ll probably even say, “I wonder why people don’t plant more of those Chinkapin Oaks?” 
Tags: chinkapin oak, golden japanese forest grass, perennial of the year, urban tree of the year
Posted in Plant of the Week | No Comments »
Thursday, June 11th, 2009
June 11, 2009
One of the most asked gardening questions is, “I’ve got patches of this light green waxy course leafed grass like weed growing in my lawn and landscape beds, and it’s growing like crazy. What is it, and how do I get rid of it?” It’s called nutgrass, or sometimes referred to as watergrass or nutsedge, and it’s not a grass, but is a sedge. And a really tough sedge to try and get rid of. It grows faster than the regular grass, it’s a limey green, and it loves moist areas or low wet spots, although it will grow elsewhere. It is a perennial, and reproduces from seeds, tubers, and nutlets, which is why it’s so hard to get rid of!
Here are a few tips for controlling Nutgrass:
1.) Hand pulling younger plants (plants just sprouted from seed) may offer some control, but once the tubers and nutlets have formed in the ground, pulling practically becomes a waste of time. You get the top of the plant, but many of the tubers and nutlets remain in the soil, ready to regrow. So if you want to physically remove the nutgrass, be sure to dig out the plant, foliage, tubers and all. If drainage is a problem (compacted poorly drained soils favor nutgrass growth), try to make necessary corrections to eliminate the problem.
2.) For control in the open landscape beds, ‘Roundup’ (Kleenup) or ‘Sedgehammer’ are your best bets, as both will move down into the tubers and nutlets for complete control. But, it generally will take repeated applications before getting nutgrass totally under control (definitely use a surfactant for better results). Spray it, kill it, if it regrows, treat it again, and again, until control is had. Remember that ‘Roundup’ (Kleenup) is non-selective and will kill what it is sprayed on. Only spray ‘Sedgehammer’ on the nutgrass as well. Use caution when spraying – always read the label first.
3.) For the lawn, ‘Sedgehammer’ does an excellent job stopping nutgrass in its tracks without harming the turf (definitely use a surfactant for better results). Spot treat the lawn areas infected with nutgrass (best at 3 leaf stage, then again as needed), not the entire lawn. After the nutgrass disappears, keep watch for any regrowth, which may require a second, possibly third application of ‘Sedgehammer’. The other is called “Nutgrass ‘Nihilator’ by Monterrey Chemical. Same procedures apply, and works quite nicely getting rid of that nutgrass. (Bonide’s MSMA as well as Weed Beater Plus also list nutgrass as a weed controlled.)
4.) VERY IMPORTANT FOR OPTIMUM CONTROL – Now here’s the secret for the best success using ‘Sedgehammer’ or ‘Roundup’ (Kleenup) or ‘Nutgrass Nihilator for nutgrass control. Use a surfactant in the spray which helps these herbicides stick to the foliage of the nutgrass, giving you even better results. It’s a must for spraying chemicals to control nutgrass.
Tags: nutgrass, nutgrass landscape beds, nutgrass lawns
Posted in Success Tip | No Comments »
Thursday, June 11th, 2009
Whether it’s the Weather?
So far so good, temperature wise, and it seems for the most part we’re getting timely rainfall when its much needed. But don’t let the rainfall become a substitute for watering newly planted trees and shrubs and flowers and all. Check the soil moisture (root ball and surrounding soil) and water as needed. Have that rain gauge installed in your yard yet?
[Indicator the economy is bad - receiving a pre-declined credit card in the mail.]
Tags: watering, Watering Plants
Posted in Weather | 1 Comment »
Thursday, June 11th, 2009
Time to keep an eye out for bristly rose slugs on roses, bagworms are ready to hatch, aphids are sucking the new growth of roses, burning bush, annuals and perennials so watch for those (blow them off woody plants with water!), blackspot and powdery mildew now showing on roses, and Emerald Ash Borer adults have started to emerge.
This week, Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU EXTENSION) is reporting slime molds making several appearances in mulched landscape beds near you (also show up in turf, natural areas, etc) and one of the most common seen here is the ever popular “Dog Vomit Fungus” or also known as “Egg Batter Mold” (it is actually a mold, not a fungus). Give the spores the right moisture and organic matter, and this stuff can float along the the wet surfaces several feet a day! (Yellow – slimy – turns orange, brown, etc) No controls – doesn’t affect plants – scrape up and throw away of fluff up and let it dry out. Buggy Joe Boggs is also reporting yellow nutsedge showing up in beds and turf, borer moths fluttering around, roughstalk bluegrass showing up in lawns (turns brown in heat and drought), root rot on Norway spruce, crane flies showing up (look like mosquitoes on steroids), mosquitoes starting to bite and bother folks, masses of midges menacing homeowners, viburnum leaf beetle defoliating viburnums (Arrowwood and Cranberry Vib.) in NE Ohio (a new beetle to the area!), pine spittle bugs on, yes, pines, elm flea weevils feeding on, yes, elm leaves (Siberian and Chinese elms), apple scab defoliating regular apples and flowering crabapples, ambrosia beetles doing their thing targeting stressed trees, and calico scale is getting ready to hatch and crawlers will be moving around (good time to spray).
Catch The Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday morning at 8:42AM on 55KRC The Talk Station.
[Indicators the economy is bad - CEO's are now playing miniature golf.]
Tags: bagworms, EAB, egg batter mold, rose slugs
Posted in Bugs | No Comments »
Thursday, June 11th, 2009
“Last week I heard you mention a new natural spray called “Jack” something. I didn’t catch what you said?” -Sorry! It’s a new organic insecticide from Bonide and it’s called “Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew”. Long story short, they discovered a bacteria in the rum mines in the Caribbean that has great insecticidal properties. The active ingredient is called “Spinosad”, and the rest is history. It’s an organic insecticide (certified for organic gardening), controls up to 4 weeks, and kills caterpillars, beetles, thrips, aphids, sawfly, chafers, mites, leafminers, and more. You can use it on ornamentals and edibles, has a low impact on good bugs, and lasts longer than Bt. Spinosad kills targeted insects thru feeding on treated foliage, so it has less impact on non targeted insects including the good bugs. As always, read the label before use, and only spray if needed.
“Have you heard anything about the problem they’re having with bats? Something about a white nose?” -I have, but not really sure what’s going on. So I have gone to our “nature boy” Patrick McCollum (Wild Bird Center in Mason) to see what he knows about it. Patrick? “As for the bats it’s actually being called “White Nose Syndrome” and has been seen predominantly in Vermont and NY. No one yet knows what it is, or what the cause is. All they know thus far is that bats are dying off at an unprecedented rate. There are more species of bats on Earth than there are all other species of every other living thing combined. This too can be ruinous to us from an agricultural perspective. Think of the crop pest problems we would have if there were no more bats. It is not even clear if the fungus around the bats’ noses – something scientists say they have never seen before – is a cause or a symptom. It may be a sign the bats are too sick to groom themselves. The die-offs could be caused by bacteria or a virus. Or the bats could be reacting to some toxin or other environmental factor. Whatever it is, afflicted bats are burning through their winter stores of fat before hibernation ends in the spring, and appear to be starving. Bats not yet visibly affected are being found deeper and deeper in caves, where it’s coolest and this generally done by bats who are sick. If I learn anything new, I’ll pass it along as soon as I can confirm it.” www.wildbirdcenter.com/mason
“We’re getting ready to mulch our beds for the summer. What type of mulch do you recommend?” -The type of mulch you use really becomes a personal preference. Shredded hardwood is still the number one seller, but not one of my favorites. Personally, I like pine straw (pine needles) or pinefines (very fine pinebark) combined with SweetPeet or some type of compost. But again, it becomes personal preference. Rememeber to not over mulch (keep it 1-3 inches deep) and never place the mulch against the trunks of the trees. Speaking of pinefines and SweetPeet, they also make a great addition to potting mixes in containers, as well as using for a soil amendment when planting new plants!
“I currently have a bluish flaky looking mold on the branches of my azalea bushes. What treatment do you recommend? I also have something similar looking on trees in my yard. I appreciate any help you can give.” -It’s a very common / natural occurrence of an algae and fungus growing together on top of the bark, and its called “lichens”. There are many types of lichens and they grow on rocks and soil and bark and on and on. They actually grow in sun, are not a parasite, and make their own food. So when lichens show up on plants, it does not mean the plants are dying or sick, although sick plants may show an increase of lichens activity on them. That’s why lichens many times get blamed for harming plants, where they are simply taking advantage of the habitat. The sick plants decline, more sun hits the lichens, and the lichens grow more. They are also an indicator of clean air! So if the lichens are growing and showing up more and more, that could be a sign the plants are declining (less foliage, more sun), and time to find out what the problem is. But again, this is not always the case. Bottom line, lichens are natural, and do not harm trees and plants or you and me. Do not try to scrub or powerwash them off the plants as this only harms the plants. Some success may be had by spraying with a moss / algae killer, or with copper sulfate, if the lichens both you that much. And as always, keep your trees and plants as healthy as possible.
Tags: azalea, mulch, natural plant spray, white nose syndrome
Posted in Bugs, Diseases, Questions of the Week | No Comments »
|
|
|
|
