Archive for August, 2009

More on Contolling Bagworms

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Garden Success Tip of the Week

 Controlling Bagworms – Okay you’re out working in the landscape and you happen to notice cone-like structures hanging from your evergreens.  As you look closer, you realize these structures are not cones but are actually moving!  Well, guess what?  You have bagworms!  Bagworms are caterpillars that during June, July and early August, feed on the needles of your evergreens, while making distinctive bags of leaves, needles, sticks, bark, and silk. They live inside the bag and carry it with them as they move around the plants and feed on the foliage.  And they largely do go unnoticed because they do resemble pine cones! 

The female bagworm remains in the bag, mates with the male, and will have 300-500 eggs in one bag.  She attaches to the branches for the winter with a silk like band, and waits for spring.  The eggs over winter in that bag, and hatch out late May and early June, starting the entire bagworm process all over again.  So, what can you do now?  Well, most sprays may not be too effective as the bagworms have pretty much stopped feeding.  If you observe that they are still feeding, you can try one last foliage soaking spray of Eight or Malathion.  But for the most part, at this stage those silk bags have become impermeable to insecticides. 

So your next mode of action is hand picking.  Hand-pick all that you can find and destroy them.  Being that most of the damages are already done, pick what you can between now and next May, which is when the new bagworms will hatch from the left over bags hanging on your plants.  Sorry, but there are no preventative sprayings for preventing bagworm infestations.  Hand-pick what you can now, and wait until next mid June to spray the newly hatched bagworms when they are most susceptible to sprays (try Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew!).  Use this same tactic for controlling bagworms in the tops of tall evergreens that cannot be hand picked.  Wait for hatching, and then spray as needed.

[Know what you get when you cross an evangelist with a hockey puck?  A puck that saves itself.]

Magnolia, Cypress, and Redwood Trees

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Plants of the Week

Sweetbay Magnolia

Sweet Bay Magnolia

If you’d like to add a little ‘Southern Comfort’ to your landscape, let me introduce you to a couple of my favorite ‘Southern Belles’.  Say magnolia and think of the south.  First, its Magnolia virginiana, or commonly known as ‘Sweet Bay Magnolia’.  Here is a hardy magnolia, usually grown multi-stemmed, that’ll easily reach 20 feet in height, and is upright at first, but will broaden with age.  Sweet Bay is considered semi-evergreen for us, with long shiny green leaves, and produces fragrant creamy white flowers in June, and off and on thru out the summer.

Bracken's Brown Beauty Magnolia

Bracken's Brown Beauty Magnolia

And for a true taste of the south, Magnolia grandilfora, or commonly known as ‘Southern Magnolia’.  One of the best selections of Southern Magnolias for our area is called ‘Bracken’s .  This southern beauty will easily reach 25 -30 feet plus in height, has 5 to 8 inch long lustrous dark green evergreen leaves with dark brown undersides, and produces a very large creamy white fragrant flower in June.   Now, after the flowers are finished, both of these magnolias will produce a very attractive seed pod, which eventually turns red with seeds.  They look great; birds love them, and can be used for holiday decorations.  ‘Sweet Bay’ and ‘Brackens Brown Beauty’ Magnolias – two great ways to add a little southern comfort to your landscape.

But wait, there’s more!

Deciduous and conifer – two words rarely used together to describe a plant.  But today let’s ponder two deciduous conifers, one from the south and one from the west coast that are great for our landscapes! 

baldcypress1

Bald Cypress

Taxodium distichum or commonly known as Bald Cypress – Yes, the same Bald Cypress you see growing down south, with its reddish brown fibrous bark, and that pale green fern like foliage which it sheds in the fall.  Bald cypress can get 50 feet plus tall and 20-30 feet wide, so give it plenty room to grow.  Use it as a specimen tree, group plantings, as a street tree, and yes, along creeks ponds lakes and wet areas.  It’ll grow in both wet and well drained soils.

 

Dawn Redwood

Dawn Redwood

Metasequoia glyptostroboides

or commonly known as Dawn Redwood – Yes, the same redwood you’re used to seeing on the west coast, with its reddish brown bark, and bright green needled foliage that also sheds in the fall after turning a nice orange brown.  Dawn Redwood is a fast grower, and again, gets 50 feet plus tall and 20-30 feet wide, so give it plenty of room to grow.   Use it as a specimen tree, group plantings, street tree, and will tolerate moist or well drained soils. 

 

Bald Cypress and Dawn Redwood – two great deciduous conifers that you should consider for your landscape!

[Know what you get when you cross the Atlantic Ocean with the Titanic?  Half way.]

Hornworms, Deer, Racoons, Rabbits & More!

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Problems in the Garden this Week

This week, our totally insect and disease infected Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting ripening tomatoes (finally ripening) are now being attacked by hornworms, deer, raccoons, turtles, squirrels, birds, some dogs, rabbits, neighbors, and anything else that likes ripe tomatoes, an unbelievable amount of reports for iron deficient oaks and magnesium deficient maples, leaves of three now really taking over in the landscape, woods, turf and such (leaves of three, let it be – poison ivy), lots of common teasel growing more than usual (weed that has those spiny flower heads), tomatoes still showing symptoms of various diseases including Septoria leaf spot, late blight, and early blight (please keep watching your tomatoes for late blight), downy mildew on cucumbers, as well as multiple cases of powdery mildew on just about anything it likes to grow on, large numbers of blue bottle flies found in a home (meat and garbage lovers, so let’s try to figure out what they were there for?), continued increase in reports of spiders and spider webs, including reports of Black Widow spiders (seldom venture into occupied buildings and prefer to live outside in old barns, abandoned buildings, wooden outhouses, under logs, and even in dense shrubs – yes dense shrubs so always poke around before reaching into dense shrubs), continued reports of cicada killer wasps, along with those wonderful harmonious singing Dog Day Cicadas (you can always tell when a cicada killer wasp gets a cicada – you hear an abrupt halt in the staccato singing of a cicada, punctuated by a high pitched screech – by the way, that would mean the cicada killer wasp has committed an “insecticidal act”, right?), reports of yellowjacket and baldfaced hornet nests (many reports after the caller found the nests by mistake – calls being made from the doctors office), Black rot on grapes, Septoria leaf spot on dogwoods, leaf blotch on Buckeye leaves (there still remains speculation on whether or not this leaf disease on Buckeye trees was developed in the state of Michigan), rust showing up BIG TIME on lawns, as well as brown patch, scale on magnolias and euonymus now being discovered by homeowners, and last but not least, bagworms now being discovered by homeowners (thought they were pinecones until they realized the cone like structures were not only moving, but eating the needles of the evergreens as well!).

-Catch The Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station.

[Humdinger - what you get when you cross a hummingbird with a doorbell.]

Garden Questions: Clematis, Grass Seed, Pampas Grass…

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

“I have 3 clematis (which have grown nicely), but they only bloom once in the spring.  I don’t deadhead them, yet blooms in the spring and is done.  Is this normal or what?”  -There are different groups of clematis.  Some bloom in spring, spring and summer, just summer, and some late summer.  And when they bloom determines when they get pruned if needed.  Sounds like you may have the spring bloomers.  And if you want to deadhead or remove old seed heads feel free to do so.  By the way, if your spring bloomers would need to be pruned, do it after they finish flowering in the spring (spring bloomers flower on previous year’s growth).

“When I walk thru my lawn, I get an orange powdery residue on my shoes.  I think the lawn may be browning a bit too.  Any insight on what this may be?”  -I’m guessing ‘rust’, and boy are we getting a ton of calls about it!  In severe cases, you can treat with a turf fungicide listed for ‘rust’, spraying once every 10 days for 2-3 sprayings.  Your first fall feeding in September with the high nitrogen fertilizer will also help the lawn grow out of the rust.  And this is one time you may want to collect the grass clippings for the next 2-3 mowings. 

“I just finished spraying my weeds with Trimec and am getting ready to sow new grass seed.  Which seed do you recommend?”  -Well, before I recommend a seed, I need to tell you that you cannot sow grass seed until 3-4 (5) weeks after spraying with a weed killer!  Read the label.  Some say 2-3 weeks (Weed Beater Ultra), some 3-4 (5).  Whichever it is, you’ll need to wait. 

“I want to grow pampas grass here, but have been told it doesn’t do well in our zone.  So, what is the tall grass I’m seeing around our area that looks like pampas grass?”   -Well, every now and then you may see a clump of pampas grass in the right situation (rarely) in our area, but I think what you’re probably seeing is ‘Plume grass’ (Erianthus ravennae – Northern Pampas Grass).  8-10 feet, grey green foliage, silvery plumes late in the season.  Looks very much like pampas, and is hardy here.  More than likely that’s what you’re seeing.

“This year, my junipers have developed berries.  I have kids and pets and was wondering if those berries were poisonous?”   -Well, let’s just say it’s probably best if the kids and pets don’t eat them.  They are bitter and not very palatable, but never the less, shouldn’t be eaten.  Now, juniper berries are actually used for many things, and have been for centuries, including aromatherapy, soaps, food flavoring, and of course, the flavoring for Gin.  But it’s also used as a diuretic, and eating the berries will cause severe increases in urinating, diarrhea, and intestinal pain.  So, show the kids what they are, and tell them to look but don’t eat.  On that same token, some Taxus (Japanese yews) will also produce berries that are a bright red and very fleshy.  Do not eat these berries.  The fleshy fruit on the outside actually is edible, but the seed on the inside is highly poisonous.  Birds can eat them and be okay, as they do not crush the seed and it passes through them.  But, it’s not the same story for others.  Do not eat the berries from Japanese yews!

“I have clumps of crabgrass here and there in my lawn.  I want to slice seed, but what do I do about the crabgrass?”   -Nothing; just slice seed right through it.  In many cases, the sliced seeder will pull it out! Or, you can dig it out, or spray Roundup right in the center of the clump and kill it first, then slice seed through it.  It is an annual and will die with the first couple good frosts.  The best defense against crabgrass is a thick lawn and using a pre emergent herbicide next spring.  We’re seeing a lot of crabgrass.  It really steps up to the plate when the grass thins out!  And, do remember that crabgrass will continue to germinate right into and thru the summer season, not just in the spring.  It’s been a ‘good’ year for crabgrass!

[Hare net - what you get when you cross a rabbit and a spider.]

Freezer Slaw

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

From the Garden to the Kitchen with Culinary Expert, Rita Heikenfeld

 Yardboy, we are finally getting enough peppers and cabbage to make a favorite: freezer slaw. So, here’s an unusual recipe for freezer slaw that makes good use of those homegrown bell peppers and cabbage.  This is really delicious and so much better than store bought.

FREEZER SLAW
2 pounds cabbage

1 large bell pepper

3 large carrots (or about a 12 oz bag shredded)

3/4 cup chopped onion

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups sugar or less to taste (may use Splenda)

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 cup water

1 cup vinegar

1 teaspoon celery seed

Shred the cabbage, bell pepper (or chop it up in tiny pieces) and carrots. Add onion and sprinkle with salt. Let sit 1 hour, then drain. Boil rest of ingredients for 3 minutes. Cool and pour over cabbage mixture. Let stand 5 minutes, stir well and pack in freezer containers. Makes about 5 pints.

Tips from Rita’s Kitchen:  Either cider or clear vinegar works here. Cider has a more ‘mellow’ flavor.

 For more great tips from Rita, visit www.abouteating.com 

[Cross a dove with a high chair, and you'll get a stool pigeon.]

That’s it for this Week

OBKB!  That’s it for this week.  Now do yourself a favor.  Go out and have the best ‘last weekend in August’ of your life.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.

(Ps. T-minus 10 days and counting.)

[Become a FACEBOOK Fan of Natorp's Garden Stores!]

Join our “Saturday Morning Garden Party with Ron and Joe” live chat line from 6-9am on www.ronwilsononline.com.  You can also follow us on Twitter by visiting www.twitter.com/ingardenwilson .

Amaryllis and Poinsettias

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

Success Tip of the Week

Getting Your Amaryllis to Flower Again  - If you’ve been growing your amaryllis bulbs all summer long, it’s getting time to prepare them for holiday / winter flowering.  There are a couple ways to do this, but here is one of the more common procedures.  -Mid to Late August, (earlier if you want earlier re-flowering), stop watering the bulb.  The leaves will yellow and begin to dry up.  Remove the dead foliage, bring the bulb inside, and store in a cool dark place for a minimum of 6 -8 weeks.  (50 degrees or so) Do not water.   -6-8 weeks before you want flowers, bring the bulb back out, begin to water (lightly at first, until stems begin to appear), and then start the growing cycle all over again.  -Bulbs that do not re-flower typically did not store enough food during the growing season, were stored too warm or too cold, or not given enough dormancy period.

-Plant Amaryllis bulbs at different times to have flowering periods that will last all winter long. 

Coaxing Poinsettias into Holiday Colors – If you by chance grew last year’s Holiday Poinsettia outdoors over the summer, it probably grew like crazy!  And now that August is here, you’re probably wondering what to do with it to get it back to the holiday colors!  Here is what you can do:

 1.) Place your poinsettia in a shady location, to begin the acclimation process of going back indoors (10 days or so).  Watch for insects before bringing it back indoors.  Find a place in the house where your poinsettia will receive good bright light during the day, and have cooler temperatures – right around 65-70 degrees.  Keep it away from hot or cold drafts, water as needed (don’t let them totally dry out), and give them a light feeding on a monthly basis.  Our goal, obviously, is to keep it as healthy as we can, growing as a houseplant.

2.) Now comes the question, “How do I get it to turn the holiday colors”?  Well, the secret is this – poinsettias are a light sensitive plant, and as the days get shorter, and nights get longer, their leaves begin to react by turning colors.  So, your goal is to give your poinsettia 10 hours of bright light each day, and 14 hours of total darkness each night.  That’s total darkness, which means no light whatsoever, including lamps, overhead lights, outdoor night-lights, etc. (It takes about 8-10 weeks of this process to start to turn colors, so plan accordingly.)

3.) You can achieve this by moving the plant each night into a closet, or placing a cardboard box over the plant.  For larger poinsettias, extra large black plastic garbage bags work well.  Simply cover the plant each night with the black plastic bag.  Or your best bet is placing it in a spare bedroom that has a really bright window for sunlight during the day, but doesn’t get used at night.  That way the plant stays cooler, has the sun it needs to grow and remain healthy, but yet receives no light for the 14-hour period.  (And there are no hassles on your part!)

4.) You’ll need to keep this procedure going for about 8-10 weeks, or until the leaves begin to turn their holiday colors.  Once they do, you can stop the procedure, and move them to where they can be enjoyed for the entire holiday season.  Now, all through this process, you still need to keep your poinsettia as healthy as possible, so keep up with the usual care. 

Another Success Tip!  For our Nursery Outlet Sale, we have developed an Outlet Sale Guide.  In this guide, you’ll find plant information as well as planting and watering information.  Whether you shop the sale or not, its great information for you to use when ‘yardening’ at your home.  It’s FREE, click here http://www.natorpsoutletsale.com/.

 Enjoy. 

[Just curious - is reading in the bathroom considered multi-tasking?  Big Dog's point to ponder.]

‘Sweet Autumn’ Clematis

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

Plant of the Week

Clematis paniculata,commonly known as ‘Sweet Autumn’ Clematis

Clematis paniculata,commonly known as ‘Sweet Autumn’ Clematis

If you’re looking for a vigorous vine to cover a fence, trellis, pergola, arbor, whatever – I’ve got one for you to consider and it’s just getting ready to bloom!  Now I’m sure you’re familiar with the vine clematis, and there are so many different clematis to choose from today – different colors, bloom sizes – spring bloomers, summer bloomers, spring and summer bloomers – and one of my favorites, which is a late summer bloomer.

Its Clematis paniculata, or commonly known as ‘Sweet Autumn’ Clematis.  Now this isn’t your ordinary clematis vine, as it is one of the most vigorous vines you can plant, and probably one of the easiest to grow.  Sweet Autumn clematis can grow 10-20 feet in one season, and during the season is covered with dense solid green leaves.  Then, come late August, the vine becomes covered with wonderful white flowers – makes it look like it was just snowed on – and on top of all this, those white flowers have a very sweet Vanilla fragrance to add to the garden.  After the flowers are finished, they become a silvery spider like structure that adds late fall interest to the vine.

Now let me stress that Sweet Autumn Clematis is a vigorous grower – very aggressive!  So plant it where to can grow and not take over other plants.  By the way, it’s so aggressive most folks will cut this one back close to the ground every spring and let it re-grow over the summer season. 

[I got a job at the workout center, but they said I wasn't fit for the job.]

Bugs & Insects in the Garden: Tobacco Hornworms & More

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

Problems in the Garden this Week

It continues to be another busy week for our bug and disease infected mouth foaming Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU extension).  This week, BJB is reporting tomatoes that were ‘on hold’ are finally starting to ripen (although Joe has thoroughly enjoyed a summer filled with fried green tomatoes), tomato and tobacco hornworms devouring bean leaf beetles chomping on – it’s early, you can guess it – green bean foliage and bean pods, yellow leaves dropping from a weeping cherry (no insects or damages – could have been cherry leaf spot, but is too late to spray), common and giant ragweed starting to rear their ugly heads above other weeds (getting ready for major hay fever ’sneason’ late summer and fall), multiple calls on yellow jacket and other ground nesting hornets, boxwood still showing winter injury, Phytophtora root and stem rot on petunias, “Ling Chih” conk (mushroom) found on red oak which causes root and butt rot (say what?), powdery mildew on pumpkin leaves, organically grown tomatoes diagnosed with late blight, second generations of Fall Webworm (can affect over 120 species of trees) and Mimosa webworm (usually only on honey locust), ailanthus webworms on – can you guess it? – Ailanthus, or commonly known as the Tree of Heaven, grasshoppers feeding on ornamental grasses (would that make them ornamental grasshoppers?) (By the way, did you know that grasshoppers have been known to eat not only plant foliage, fruits, grains, etc, but also eat paper, paint, window screens, window caulking, fence posts, and hoe handles?  I’m not making this up!), acorn plum galls dropping from – yes – red oaks, magnolia scale crawlers crawling, obscure scale crawlers on oak are now crawling, Japanese beetles pretty much down to nothing as this stage (heavy damages in NE Ohio), bedbugs showing up in homes after the homeowners had stayed in a motel/hotel (at  least that’s their story where they stayed), powdery mildew on many other landscape plants and veggie plants, dog vomit slime mold having a great time this summer slimming around, and last but not least, purple greasy looking grass which is actually caused by a  slime mold growing on the grass blades.  Purple greasy looking grass?  Give me a break. 

-Catch The Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station. 

 SOCIAL BEES & WASPS A FRIGHTENING EXPERIENCE!  This time of the year, yellow jackets and hornet nests become an issue.  So here’s some great information from our good friend Dr. Dave Shetlar, The Bug Doc.

I am always a bit amused when I hear of the encounters that homeowners have with social wasps! Just last week, a person called in to report that he had “suddenly” discovered a football-sized bald-faced hornet’s nest just outside his front door. This nest has obviously been building in size since May, yet the homeowner hadn’t noticed it! This just reinforces entomologist’s contentions that most of the social wasps are quite benign, and in fact, beneficial (mainly insect predators).

HOWEVER, now is the time that these social wasps, especially yellow jacket species, bald-faced hornets, and our European paper wasp, become more aggressive in seeking sugary foods. This is the time that people-wasp interactions are most likely to occur. In short, up to now these wasps have been feeding on other insects, primarily caterpillars, sawflies and flies. The wasp workers capture these insects, chew them up and take the “bug burger” back to the nest to feed the helpless maggots (their larvae) that are growing within the individual cells located with each nest. Until now, the queen wasp has been laying eggs that produce only sterile female workers. However, now the queen begins to lay eggs that will develop into new queens and drones. These new queens will have fully developed reproductive organs, but they won’t produce eggs until next spring. New queens and drones don’t forage for food like the workers do, but usually hang around the nest begging the workers for food. In this case, these reproductives prefer high carbohydrate foods rather than the high protein food needed by the larvae.

The workers pick up on the begging and begin to switch their foraging behavior to find foods with high sugar and yeast content. Of course, this means that they become real nuisances around parks, outdoor eating establishments and other places where people like to have sugary drinks, fruits and even beer. And these wasps have a memory! They remember where they were successful in finding high sugar foods and they will return again and again, often after recruiting fellow workers.

This is why outdoor feeding establishments and amusement parks have to be diligent at maintaining self-closing trash cans regularly picking up or washing down food and drink spills and practicing similar sanitary procedures.

The German yellow jacket, eastern yellow jacket, yellow hornet and bald-faced hornet are the most common species of social nuisance wasps found in Ohio urban and suburban areas. Most entomologists claim that these wasps are generally “non-aggressive” except if you get near their nests. This is usually misunderstood by the average person. What we’re talking about is their tendency to sting, not their persistent behavior to pursue food! These wasps can be very “aggressive” in pursuit of their food, but unless you physically restrain them (trap them under clothing, step on them, or get them caught in a soda can), or strike them while flaying your arms in an attempt to shoo them away, they won’t sting.

In fact, I’ve forced myself to be very unafraid of wasps buzzing around me or even landing on my arm or clothing. In most cases, they are simply inspecting me to determine if I’m food or not! On the other hand, if one strikes me or persists in buzzing loudly in front of me, I must assume that I may be close to a nest and this worker is giving me a warning to move away. Honey bees, bumble bees and many wasps do give “warnings” if you are willing to listen! Stinging is really the last resort and the behavior can be very risky for the bee or wasp. Honey bees actually die after stinging because their barbed stinger gets stuck and pulls off the tip of the abdomen when the bee departs.

My general recommendation about social bees and wasps is to try and avoid getting near their nests. They’ll be gone after the first hard frost. However, if you happen to find a nest that has been built under the mulch in a flower bed, a hole in the lawn, or other place where you may regularly need to perform maintenance, control may be necessary. There are all kinds of wasp and hornet aerosol sprays on the market, but these are generally inadequate for control of bees and wasps that nest in the ground or in wall voids. Only the umbrella wasps, Polistes, can be easily hit with these sprays. If you can locate, during the day, where the yellow jackets or bumble bees are entering their nests, try to determine where the wasps or bees land before crawling into the nest chamber. Make a mental note of this. Your strategy will be to dust this area with an insecticide, AT NIGHT, when the bees and wasps are unlikely to fly or be disturbed. My favorite insecticide to use is Sevin garden dust, but you can find other garden dusts with pyrethroids. Thoroughly dust the landing spot with the dust so that the next day most of the bees or wasps will walk through the material. Once they walk through the insecticide dust, the insects will carry the material into the nest. There, the bees and wasps will groom themselves and each other, distributing the insecticide throughout the colony. I’ve been pretty successful at knocking out a colony with one application, but sometimes a rain or irrigation can wash away the insecticide dust, so another application may be necessary in a few days.   -Dr. Dave Shetlar

Garden Questions: More on Tomatoes, Indoor Plants, Lantana…

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

Garden Questions of the Week

“Do you know of a recipe for making a leaf shine for indoor plants?”   -Yes, many.  But they aren’t recommended any more.  The best thing for your plants is to wash them off in the shower or tub and wipe down the leaves.  I don’t recommend using leaf shines.

“My lantana had flowers, but now has small purple berries and no flowers.  Any ideas?”  -Yes, it went to seed.  Cut off those seed heads, and clip back tips of the plant.  Hopefully we’ll get it to re-grow and keep flowering.

“How do bagworms move from plant to plant?”   -Each bag can contain as many as 500 eggs.  In June, when they hatch, you can imagine how small they are!  Well, they get into the wind, and fly to other plants (or stay put on the home plant).  They can also move around the plant they hatch on (they just open the lid on top of their bag and using their front legs, crawl around on the plant or move to close by plants, all the while carrying their bag home), as well as onto neighboring plants if the branches overlap and touch.

“My Autumn Joy Sedum always flops over this time of the year.  What can I do to prevent this?”    -1.) Place a grow ring or peony ring over them before they start to grow in the spring (for support) 2.) Cut them in half in late May / early June.  This delays flowering by a couple weeks, but keeps them shorter, stockier, and less apt to flop! 

Hi Ron Wilson: This is Xavier N. again. I still listen to your show every Saturday morning with my grandma.  We grew tomatoes this year but they are white inside, and hard and kind of dry. What happened?   Grandma said she has never seen this before. We are growing corn at my house.”

  – Hi Xavier!  I’ve had several folks complain about hard white cores in their tomatoes this year.  This can occur from plant stress (too hot / too cold), too much fertilizer, and by variety.  Older varieties produce fruit with 5 distinct cavities (filled with seeds and gel) and the walls between the cavities join together to form the core.  That’s what’s getting white and hard.  Some of the newer selections produce smaller but more cavities, and don’t have such a thick central core, and in turn don’t seem to have as much of a problem with the core being white and hard (or pithy) under stressed conditions.   Good luck with that corn – and thanks for listening to our show!

“I’ve been seeing tomato hornworms and was looking for a way to stop them organically, if possible.  Any suggestions?“   -Hand pick them and do the Buggy Joe Stomp.  Seriously – the numbers are usually low enough that hand picking works.  But if you do need to spray, look at ‘Bt’ – all natural spray to control many leaf eating caterpillars.  It does take time to work, so you will get damage until it finally affects the hornworm.  They can sometimes be hard to find – look for eaten leaves and for their hornworm poop (little black balls) underneath the area where they’re feeding.  And yes, they will eat foliage and tomatoes, and will do it quickly!  By the way, there are tobacco and tomato hornworms, both of which feed on tomatoes. 

“I haven’t seen Late Blight on my tomatoes or my neighbors.  Should I spray them just to be sure?”   – Well, it won’t hurt.  This has now been detected in Wisconsin, and is really spreading.  So, it’s important that the word get out about Late Blight, what to look for, and what to do if you find it on your tomatoes or potatoes (visit ohioline.osu.edu for more info).  So please make sure you know what to look for, and if you do get it, let the local extension office know.  Important for them to track where it’s been found.  – Closely inspect your tomato and potato plants at least once a week for lesions or other signs of late blight. – You can try using a preventive fungicide spray to treat your plants, which is what commercial growers are doing. Look for products that contain chlorothalonil or mancozeb. These sprays are not absorbed systemically by the plant, so they need to be applied thoroughly and then reapplied every five to seven days if there’s a lot of wet weather.  If you’re gardening organically, you can try a copper spray, but they are not considered as effective against late blight. – Be prepared to destroy your plants if you get an infestation. – Do not compost any diseased portions of your plants. Put them in plastic garbage bags. – Although it does not over winter in the soil, still rotate your crops so you don’t grow tomatoes and potatoes in the same soil from year to year.  -If found on potatoes, same rules apply.  But, if any left over tubers grow back next year, those plants should be destroyed immediately as it could overwinter in an infected potato tuber!

[I studied a long time to be a doctor, but just didn't have any patience.]

Upside Down Pizza

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009

From the Garden to the Kitchen

Yardboy, can you believe it’s time for the kids to go back to school already? Here’s a yummy snack or lunch pizza that the kids can help make. The bonus is this pizza uses garden veggies & herbs, so if you’re growing them, let the kids go out and pick.  And, let the kids decide on the toppings – you don’t have to have exact amounts of anything.

UPSIDE DOWN PIZZA

 For each pizza you’ll need:

1 pita bread, 8″

1 tablespoon each: (eyeball it – go to taste on these: pepperoni slices if desired, diced bell pepper, onion, tomatoes, sliced mushrooms, few snips of fresh basil, rosemary, thyme, parsley, etc. or a shake of dry Italian seasoning  and shake of garlic powder (opt), 2-3 tablespoons Mozzarella and 1 tablespoon Parmesan.

In a nonstick skillet, put pepperoni slices in. Now add everything else, except Mozzarella and Parmesan.  Cook for a minute or two and then add cheeses.  Let it start to melt – this is the “glue” that holds the pizza together.  Place pita bread on top of this mixture and press firmly.  Gently rotate the pita back and forth and in a circular motion to help combine ingredients together.  Invert a flat plate over pan.  Holding pan and plate firmly together, flip pizza onto plate. Cut into wedges.

 For more great recipes, visit www.abouteating.com.

[I tried to be a chef - figured it would add some spice to my life, but I just didn't have the thyme.] 

That’s it for this Week

OBKB.  That’s it for this week.  Now, do yourself a favor.  Go out and have the best weekend, of your life.  I will – it marks the 34th anniversary of being married to my wonderful bride!  Happy Anniversary, darlin’.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.   (Ps. T-minus 16 days and counting.)

 

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Ron Wilson

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