Archive for March, 2010

Controlling Moss

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Garden Success Tip of the Week

Controlling Moss in the Lawn – If moss begins to appear in your lawn, it’s usually an indication that for whatever reason, the conditions are not good for growing grass.  The grass dies out and the moss moves in.  Moss does not kill grass – it grows where the grass won’t.  Once moss becomes established, grass will not spread into those areas. Conditions that favor moss and not favor grass include one or a combination of the following:  -Excessive shade  -Low pH of the soil  -Poor drainage  -Compacted soils  -Excessive irrigation  -Low soil fertility  -Poor air circulation  -Shallow rocky soils

Killing the existing moss – Moss can be killed or mechanically removed, but unless the favorable conditions change to favor growing grass, the moss will eventually begin to re-grow.  Moss can be killed with the use of many manufactured moss and algae killers, copper sulfate or iron sulfate, or by using a home remedy of dissolving 1 small box of baking soda in 2 gallons of luke-warm water.  Place in tank sprayer and spray the moss.  Burns it off within a day and keeps it away for 4-6 weeks.  Raking the moss with a hard rake will also help in drying the moss and airing the soil.  Again, these are all temporary fixes.

Changing the conditions-

Shade:  Moss tolerates shade better than grass.  So thinning and limbing-up trees will help increase sunlight and air circulation.  Removal of selected trees will also help allow in more sunlight and better air flow.  Also consider planting a more shade tolerant grass such as the turf type tall fescues.  In extremely shady areas where grass will not grow, consider planting shade tolerant groundcovers or mulching the area.  And if all else fails, let the moss grow.  It is green, and does well in the shade!  Work around it.

Check the soil pH:  Although pH of the soil is minor factor in favoring mosses, if the soil is too acidic for turf growth, adjust with lime to a favorable ph for turf (5.8 to 6.8 or so).

Poor drainage:  Re-grading, adding French drains, elevating areas, etc, are all ways to increase better water flow through the area.

Compacted soils:  Core aeration is the best way to open up compacted soils.  The next step would be to back fill those holes with coarse sand for added aeration.

Excessive Irrigation:  Watering on a regular schedule is not good.  Water only as needed and water thoroughly and deeply each time you do.

Low soil fertility:  Again, have the soil tested.  More than likely, beginning a regular lawn care feeding program (getting nitrogen back into the soil) does the trick.  But do have your soils tested to see what they may lack.

Once you have altered these conditions, feel free to begin renovating the area and growing grass once again – moss free! 

[You can be sure its rabbit stew if you look for the hares in it.]

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Magnolia

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Plant of the Week

Don’t you just love magnolias?  Even their name sounds good – “magnolia”.  The plant of the week is one of the early bloomers of the magnolias, usually flowering at the same time as the forsythia.  Its Magnolia stellata, or commonly known as ‘Star Magnolia’.  Used as a specimen or accent plant, ‘Star’ is a multi-stemmed, somewhat bushy looking magnolia (can be limbed up into a multi-stemmed small tree) reaching 15-20 feet in width and height.  It’s gray brown stems and glabrous dark green oblong leaves (2-4 inches long) make this magnolia very attractive during the growing season, but it’s the wonderful heavy blooming fragrant white star like flowers that really put on a show in early spring (many flowers show a bit of pink in the center).  Each flower will have as many as 28-32 petals and are about 5 inches across when fully opened.  You can count on this one flowering each year, and starting at a very early age.  ‘Star Magnolia’ – a true sign that spring has arrived.

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Stop Problems in the Garden

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

To help prevent or suppress problems in the garden, don’t forget the following things you can do now:

-Apply dormant sprays as needed to help suppress many over wintering insects (and diseases).

-Apply pre emergent herbicides to the lawn and to the landscape beds to help stop weed seeds before they get growing.

-Remove dead foliage, dead branches, garden debris etc now to help get your yard off to a cleaner start.  Many times dead foliage / branches / debris can help over winter insect and disease problems.

-Apply systemic insecticides as needed to help prevent or suppress future insect damages, including protecting Ash trees from Emerald Ash borers, roses from rose slugs, iris from iris borers, etc.

[76% of people eat their chocolate bunny's ears first.]

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Gardening Questions

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

Garden Questions of the Week

“Is it too late to over seed some bare areas in the lawn?”  -No not at all.  The goal is to have the new grass seed in contact with the soil so it’s ready to grow when the temperatures are right.  Remember, the seed must be in contact with the soil to germinate, so rake those bare areas before seeding to help expose the seed to the soil.  You could also slice seed if needed.

“I’ve been raking moss in our yard and wondered if grass would grow in those areas.”   -If you correct the conditions which will make the moss go away and the environment more conducive to growing grass!  Read on further to our Success Tip.  With all the moss now showing up, it’s time to talk “moss”.

“Okay, is now the time to cut back my roses?”  -If you can’t stand it any longer you can go ahead, but as many of the professional rosarians in our area will tell you, be patient, and wait until April 15, or sometime later.  I will wait another week or so just to see where we are weather wise and what the long range forecast is, and then see about cutting back those roses!

“Last year I had bagworms galore on my evergreens.  What can I do to prevent them this year?”   -There are no preventions for bagworms, besides making sure you’ve hand picked and destroyed any remaining bagworms still hanging on your plants.  These little bags can have as many as 500 eggs in them, so pick and destroy before they hatch, which usually occurs late May.  If they show up at that time on your plants, then spray with Bt or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew.  But not before you see the whites of their beady little baggy eyes!

“When applying my Preen, do I need to put it on top of the mulch, or underneath the mulch?”  -That’s a great question!  And the answer depends on the situation!  -If its bare soil and you’re mulching for the first time, apply Preen to the soil first, then mulch.  If your budget allows, a second application on top of the mulch will be helpful for weed seeds blowing into the mulch.  -If you’re simply top dressing or freshening existing mulch, apply Preen before you add the new mulch.  -And if you’re already mulched and ready to go, simply apply Preen to the top of the mulch.   And in all cases, make sure that the Preen gets watered in!  As a reminder for those of you interested in using organic or natural products in your gardens, both Preen and Espoma now have their all natural pre emergent made from Corn Gluten.  It needs to be reapplied more often, but it is a natural alternative for you.

“Is it okay to apply a weed and feed to my lawn right now?”  -NO!  Weed and feeds are generally applied later into the growing season once all of the weeds are up and growing – mid to late spring.  Putting a weed and feed down right now is wasting your time and money as many weeds are still dormant.  If you would like to spot treat weeds that are growing right now, use Bonide’s Weed Beater Ultra – covers a wide array of lawn weeds, works in cooler temperatures, and you can reseed in those treated areas 2-3 weeks after treatment.  By the way, this one does a pretty good job spot treating those wild onions in the lawn!  A quick reminder about wild onions – they are highly edible.  As long as they haven’t been treated with chemicals, you can harvest and eat the greens just like harvesting chives.  Hey, $1.99 a bunch at the grocery – free in your own backyard!  (Ps. There are combined ‘pre and post emergent controls’ which are applied now.  Bonide’s Weed Beater Complete is an example.  It has both pre emergent and post emergent capabilities, but is applied as a pre emergent – timing wise.  Remember, always reads the label before use.)

 

Reader’s comments: “I noticed advice to providing pieces of yarn to the birds to build bird nests.  Several years ago my husband and I found a young bird struggling around on the ground below her nest.  We picked her up and noticed that a piece of yarn was twisted around both of her legs and she could not fly.  We carefully cut the yarn away from her legs and she immediately flew away.  So I would advice not to use any yarn.”  -Thanks for the input.  Definitely could be an issue.  (See?  We report – you decide. Think I’ve heard that somewhere before.)

[Bunion - results of crossing a bunny and an onion.]

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Sprial Ham with Maple Syrup Dijon Glaze

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

From the Garden to the Kitchen

Yardboy, lots of us are having ham for Easter and this recipe gives you a bit of a twist on traditional glazes. This glaze works on any ham, but is particularly nice with spiral ones. Happy Easter to you, and to all of our readers.  I hope the Easter Bunny fills your basket to the brim! 

SPIRAL HAM WITH MAPLE SYRUP DIJON GLAZE

1 spiral ham, 7-9 #

1 cup water

Glaze:

3/4 cup maple syrup

3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.

Place ham in a roasting pan and pour about 3/4 cup water into the bottom of pan. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 1 hour and 40 minutes or until heated through. 

Meanwhile, make the glaze: Whisk all ingredients together in a saucepan until smooth and heat over medium-low to medium heat until simmering. Simmer a couple of minutes and remove from heat. When ham is heated through, remove the aluminum foil, and pour or brush the glaze over the top to cover completely. Raise oven temperature to 400 degrees.  Return the ham to the oven and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes or until glaze is caramelized and bubbly. Let rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

-Rita Heikenfeld, CCP / Herbalist   www.abouteating.com 

 

Bring the kids and join Rita Heikenfeld Saturday, April 10, at the Junior League’s “Kids in the Kitchen” special FREE event at the U.C. Recreation Center.  Healthy snacks, creative crafts, raffle prizes and giveaways, cooking demonstrations, face painting and a whole lot more!  www.jlcincinnati.org

 

[One Easter, I went to church with Rita.  After the service, our Priest came up to me and said, "You need to join the Army of the Lord."  I told him that I was already in the Army of the Lord and he said, "You are?  Then why don't I see you except at Christmas and Easter?"  I whispered back, "I'm in the secret service."  -Frank Heikenfeld]

 

 

OBKB.  That’s it for this Week.  It’s Easter Weekend, so do yourself a favor.  Be sure to make it the best Easter Weekend of your life.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy. (Join us Saturday from 6-9am on our live chat line – www.ronwilsononline.com – and listen to our gardening show at the same time (In the Garden), on 55KRC The Talk Station.)

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Taters In A Basket

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

Garden Success Tip of the Week

Have you ever tried growing potatoes in tough old clay soil?  The results are usually less than bad.  But here’s the perfect solution for growing great potatoes.  Grow them in a pot.  Now, whether you’ve got clay soil, live in an apartment, or don’t have a garden at all, you can grow potatoes the ole’ yardboy way.  And that’s in a container.  Here’s what you’ll need:

1.) The container – we like to use bushel baskets.  They breathe well, allow for good drainage, and they look good!  But any container, plastic, wood or clay, laundry baskets, trash cans, potato grow bags, will work, as long as it has good drainage, and is at least 12-18 inches wide and at least 10 – 12 inches deep.  You can even use chicken wire fencing and create a potato tube to grow them in, or try stacking up old tires.

2.) Soil-less potting mix – use the good stuff for better results.  If you have a compost pile, good compost will work too. Finely shredded is best.  Folks have even used straw and ground leaves.  Also, an all purpose garden food, Osmocote, and or Miracle Gro.

3.) Seed potatoes – these aren’t the ones you buy from the grocery store.  These are found at the garden stores (or feed stores) and are used specifically for growing potatoes. Any variety will work.  We don’t recommend using potatoes from the produce department at the grocery.  Many have been treated with a growth inhibitor to keep them from sprouting.

Fill the bottom of your pot with 6-8 inches of the soil-less mix (or compost).  Take a large seed potato, or a couple medium sized, cut up into pieces that contain the eyes, and evenly distribute those in the top of the soil-less mix.  I usually plant around 6- 8 -10 pieces with eyes per basket. If you’re not sure about ‘the eyes’, you can plant whole potatoes, or cut them in half and plant the halves.  Plant a bit heavier than usual when planting in containers.

Cover over with another 2-3 inches of soil-less mix, water in thoroughly, and sit your container in the sun.  Water as needed, thoroughly moistening the soil, then letting it dry, and then watering it again.  Once your potatoes start to grow, water as needed.  Again, do not over water.   

Now that your potatoes are growing, you have a couple options: 1.) As the potatoes grow, keep adding your soil-less mix (or compost) to the container, always keeping about 4 inches of foliage showing. Continue this process until the container is filled to within a couple inches of the top of the basket. Or, 2.) Let the foliage grow until it’s approximately 3-4 inches above the top of the basket, and then fill in around the foliage with your soil-less mix (or compost) until the basket is full of soil. Now you’re all set for growing potatoes!

Let your potatoes grow all summer – remember water when needed, especially during the heat of the summer (again, don’t over-water). Come late summer or fall when the foliage starts to yellow, cut it off, dump out your soil, and you’ll have a basket full of taters!  It’s that easy.  (New potatoes are simply harvested earlier in the season)  Good Luck!

*Feeding your containers can be done by mixing a general garden food in with the soil-less mix which is added to the growing potato plants.  You can also use Osmocote for a slow release season long feeding, supplemented with occasional Miracle Gro when watering (maybe 2 -3 times during the summer)

[Be nice to your kids.  Someday they'll choose your nursing home.]

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‘Allee’ Lacebark Elm

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

Plant of the Week

'Allee' Lacebark Elm

'Allee' Lacebark Elm

Looking for a low maintenance, easy to grow, yet fast growing shade tree?  Here’s one for you to consider – Ulmus parvifolia ‘Allee’, or commonly known as ‘Allee’ Lacebark Elm.  Allee is a graceful round-headed tree with upright arching branches and sometimes pendulous branchlets. The leaves are a lustrous dark green changing yellow to purplish brown in the fall, and the bark becomes a mottled combination of gray, green, orange and brown.  Tough, durable, urban condition tolerant, adjusts to many soil types, and makes the perfect lawn, parking lot or street shade tree – planted along streets will develop a beautiful cathedral affect!  ‘Allee’ grows 40-50 feet high and wide, and is truly a wonderful fast growing, low maintenance shade tree.  (Great replacement for Ash trees!)

[A closed mouth gathers no foot.]

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Ladies Beetles and Dust from the Japanese Yew

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

It won’t be long for Buggy Joe Boggs to come out of hibernation and begin his buggy report, but until then, The BugDoc (David Shetlar) has already begun his 2010 reports!  BugDoc is reporting many inquiries about a “lady beetle looking insect” showing up on window sills and walls in the home right now, as well as cluster flies and bluebottle flies.  The beetle is indeed a lady beetle, but as the Doc reminds us, is no “lady”.  This non-native beetle, although a superior predator – which is why it was introduced here in the first place – has turned out to be a real nuisance indoors and out.  Research is now finding out that these beetles are also eating native lady beetle eggs and larvae!  And yes, they can take a ‘nip’ on human skin (unlike the native beetles).  Oh yeah, we’re also finding out some folks are allergic to them (from either their secretions or the fungi that grow on them if they die inside).  Nice, huh?  As for the flies, they just over wintered in your walls and attics and now they want outside.  Of course, not until they buzz your face a few times to get your attention.  Thanks BugDoc for the report.

By the way, I had several calls and emails last week with concerned gardeners wondering what the dust like substance was that was coming off of their Japanese yews (Taxus).  They were all pleased to know that it was nothing more than ‘yew pollen’.  Yes, they are in flower right now (small brown buds inside the plant) and that is the pollen flying around.  As a matter of fact, as I was pulling into the post office parking lot Sunday, the Taxus hedge there was being moved by the wind, and it looked like the plants were smoking!  Pretty cool stuff. 

[Time is nature's way of keeping everything from happening at once.]

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Garden Questions

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

Garden Questions of the Week

I’ve been a long-time fan of the newsletter and blog.  You mentioned getting the hummer feeders ready, but you forgot to remind folks to get ready for bird nesting season.  During the winter, we save our dryer lint, animal hair (cat fur), and other assorted strings and fibers.  Usually around this time of year, we pack all of that fluff into an old suet feeder, hang it on a tree and the birds go to town with it.  It’s fun to see nests that have ‘our’ yarn scraps in them!”   -Great tip!  As a matter of fact, Patrick McCollum had a little tip for our newsletter about the same thing! “Love is in the air – everywhere I look around. Love is in the air – every sight and every sound.” The song may be cheesy, but it never rings more true at any time of the year than right now.  Spring has arrived, and Mother Nature explodes now with an abundance of life. There is no better way to appreciate the wonder of nature during this special time than by putting up a year round bird feeder, or a bird house in your backyard. Those cavity nesting birds have been looking for prime real estate for over a month now, but it’s never too late to get a bird house up in your back yard. Besides, suitable natural nesting sites for birds get fewer and fewer each year. A few pointers when selecting a bird house should be that it is sturdy, has adequate ventilation and drainage, is easy to clean out in the fall and winter when the birds will have abandoned the nest, and is placed in an area and at a height suitable enough to detract predators. In choosing a bird house, there really are no one-size-fits all types. Different species of birds require different size entry holes suited to their particular liking. Bird watching is the fastest growing outdoor activity in the United States, and is fun and educational for people of all ages. For more information and help in selecting the best bird house for your backyard, stop by and let one of the Naturalists at the Wild Bird Center of Mason help get you started to attract the birds that you’d like to see in your back yard!”

“I need to replace two Purple Leaf Sand Cherries that have seen better days.  They are located on each side of the front of my house, which gets morning sun.  I would like something with a purple or distinctive color leaf, preferably something that has a bloom, and that doesn’t get any larger than the purple leaf sand cherry (5-7 foot).  Do you have any suggestions, and also, is it too early to take out the old shrubs and plant the new ones now?  Thanks so much.  I enjoy your email letter each week and also your radio program.”   -The first plants that come to mind would be Physocarpus (Ninebark) ‘Diablo’ or ‘Summer Wine’.  Not quite the glossy maroon colors of the sand cherry leaf, but still good dark maroon color (Summer Wine has a little more red in it.).  Pinkish white button flowers in spring, very hardy, loves the sun.  You can also look at ‘Blacklace’ Elderberry with its dark maroon leaves and pink spring flowers.  As for timing – as long as the soil is workable and the plants available, you can start planting!

Is it ok to trim a dogwood tree?  A friend of mine trimmed his tree yesterday and his wife is furious as she told him that you are not allowed to trim a dogwood tree.  Is there anything he can do now?”   -Beg for mercy!  Seriously, yes, dogwood trees can be trimmed, and are trimmed as needed, but usually don’t require much in trimming as they are slower growers and smaller structured trees.  But occasionally need to be limbed up, or a branch taken out, or whatever.  And that can be done just about any time of the year.  BUT, what happens pruning now is that if those branches had flower buds on them (for this spring), then your friend removed the spring flower buds on those branches.  Doesn’t hurt the dogwood, but obviously reduces spring color a little. Nothing he can do – pruning is done – dogwood should be okay – hopefully he will be, too.  Hey!  When the dogwood is in flower, maybe he could add a little color by bringing home a nice vase of cut flowers to help make up for the ones he cut off the dogwood.  Just a thought.

“I have had problems with mosquitoes in my vegetable garden.  The garden seems to have proper drainage and requires watering in dry weather.  When I was in Camp Habaniyah, Iraq, I was told the British Royal Air Force had planted eucalyptus around the compound to repel mosquitoes.  What do you think?  If that works, I would plant eucalyptus bushes.  What is the best variety and where should I get them?”    -Actually there are many plants that have mosquito repelling qualities – eucalyptus being one of them.  But the problem is that the chemical that repels mosquitoes is inside the plant and must be released by crushing the leaves, bruising the leaves, smudge burning, etc.  So although the plants chemical makeup has the ability to help repel mosquitoes, releasing it and how many plants does it take to properly repel them becomes the big questions.  Mosquito control starts with eliminating breeding areas, protecting yourself with proper clothing and repellents (spray on), then try all the sprays and traps and all those things which have varying levels of control.  And watch those sprays around the garden!  

“Can you suggest what to use to prevent the early defoliation of knock outs (rsoes) by rose slug – Organically if possible?”    – Last year was a great (or bad depending on how you look at it) year for rose slugs destroying rose foliage.  This year we’ve already had early questions about 2010 rose slug control! Well, first, there are no systemic insecticides that I am aware of that are organic, so you’ll have to attack the rose slug itself.  (Bonide’s or Bayer’s Tree and Shrub Insect Control are the systemics – 3 in 1 Rose Care usually covers them, too, but always check the label.)  Even with the use of systemic insecticides, many times a backup plan may be needed if the populations are high.  So here are some natural ways to help suppress rose slugs on roses:  -Hose them off with a strong stream of water.   -Hand pick them off / smash them.  -Sprays include Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew (Spinosad – certified organic), Insecticidal Soap, Neem, and Horticultural oil. (Bt does not work on rose slugs)     NOTE:  Be sure to spray the undersides of the leaves.  Most of the time they will be under the leaves, and very hard to see when they are small.  They typically feed at night but can be found in the morning.  Remember there are a couple types of rose slugs and multiple generations as well. They do not look like slugs but more like a small caterpillar.  They’re actually a sawfly.  

Iris borers – By the way, we have also found the above mentioned systemics doing a great job helping fight against iris borers in iris!  Yes, it needs to be applied this spring as the irises are beginning to grow. 

[Ham and eggs: a day's work for the chicken but a lifetime commitment for the pig.]

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Quiche Soufflés and Muffins

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

From the Garden to the Kitchen

Yardboy, I’m thinking Easter! We always have a large family brunch so I’m on the lookout for easy, tasty food to serve that holds up well. Here’s one that will definitely be on my Easter Table:

Individual Quiche Soufflés/Muffins – This is a master recipe, so do with it as you like. Any kind of cooked meat works well – or none.  I made mine with 1/2 pound cooked sausage and chives. I layered the add-ins before pouring in the egg mixture, as it was easier to divide evenly. Recipe doubles or triples well. Don’t omit the baking powder. It gives just the right amount of lift.  Yield will depend upon size of muffin tins.

Master recipe:

5 large or extra large eggs

1/2 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

Salt and pepper

1-1/2 cups to 2 cups shredded cheese

Good add-ins: 1/2# cooked sausage or bacon, crumbled, handful of chopped chives, frozen spinach, thawed & drained well, sautéed onions, leeks, mushrooms, etc.

Preheat oven to 350. Beat eggs, milk, baking powder and salt & pepper together.

Spray a 6 or 8   cup muffin tin really well, since the egg mixture tends to stick.

Divide cheese among muffin tins along with other add-ins before pouring base mixture on. Check after baking 20 minutes. Toothpick inserted in center should come out clean, but don’t over bake.  Can be baked up to a day ahead and microwaved gently to rewarm, or in 350 degree oven, covered, until hot throughout.

Tip from Rita’s kitchen: Check baking powder for leavening power: Pour a teaspoon into 1/2 cup warm water. It should fizz right away if it’s fresh. Write date when you open can on the lid. It’s good for about 1 year if kept away from heat and light.

-Rita Heikenfeld, CCP / Herbalist   www.abouteating.com

[Being married to Rita is like a three ring circus: engagement ring, wedding ring, and then the suffering.  -Frank Heikenfeld]

OBKB.  That’s it for this week!  Now do yourself a favor.  Go out and have the absolute best week and weekend of your life.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.  (Join us on our live chat line every Saturday morning, 6-9am.  Go to www.ronwilsononline.com.  Of course, you can do that while listening to our gardening show on 55KRC The Talk Station!)

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Ron Wilson

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