Archive for May, 2010

Controlling Iris Borers

Monday, May 24th, 2010

Garden Success Tip of the Week

Controlling Iris Borers – An infestation of iris borers can wipe out an iris patch in no time!  So here are a few suggestions to help control iris borers in your iris patch:

  • 1.) The first and most critical step in controlling iris borers is with cultural controls. Mid to late summer, dig up the iris rhizomes, divide, inspect and pitch borer infested rhizomes. For safety sake, you can soak them (rhizomes to be replanted) briefly in a 10% bleach / 90% water solution before replanting. But basically, you have just physically removed the borer infested rhizomes from the patch. Replant good borer free tubers.
  • 2.) In the fall, remove all debris from around the iris patch, including cutting back any foliage and removing that, so that adult borers (if still in the area) have less favorable conditions for overwintering their eggs. (The females lay eggs on the debris around the iris, as well as the lower iris foliage. And can do so, on other plants nearby.) Again, removal of iris foliage and surrounding debris physically removes over wintering eggs.
  • 3.) If there are iris borer eggs still remaining in the area, they will begin to hatch out mid to late April / early May. If you want to use foliar sprays, do so mid May thru early June. But you can try skipping that (for bee friendly gardening), and instead, simply watch the foliage when the time is right for the borers to hatch from the eggs. Once hatched out, they will move to the top of the emerging iris foliage, bore inside the foliage (close to the top) and begin to tunnel their way down the iris foliage on their way to the iris tuber. You can see their tunnels (brown streaking where the tunnel is), and by placing your thumb on one side of the tunnel and index finger on the other side, you can simply smash those bores before they can move down to the iris tuber. This is very effective!
  • 4.) For added protection, try using systemic insecticides such as Bayer’s Advanced or Bonides Tree and Shrub Insect Control, which is applied to the soil in early April. This is taken up in both the rhizomes and the foliage, helping to control iris borers from the inside, out.
  • 5.) So, using the above mentioned controls, you should be good to go without using foliar sprays. Good luck!
PrintFriendly

Coral Bells

Monday, May 24th, 2010

Plant of the Week

Coral Bells

Coral Bells

Let the Coral Bells ring, as Plant of the Week!  The genus Heuchera includes over 50 species of perennials native to North America.  And today, plant breeders have developed a multitude of hybrids between various Heuchera species with an extensive array of blossom sizes, shapes, colors, and evergreen foliage types.  Named after 18th century German physician Johann Heinrich von Heucher, Heuchera are commonly known as ‘Alumroot’ (roots once used to aid digestive problems) or ‘Coral Bells’ (nodding bell shaped flowers).   Coral Bells add “wow” and “pizzazz” to the garden or containers year round.  Their heart shaped / rounded evergreen leaves (sometimes even ruffled), range in a host of bright colors and sometimes variegated patterns.  As an added bonus, that colorful foliage is graced with bell shaped flowers (late spring and into summer) that gave them their name, displayed on flower spikes 12 to 24 inches high.  The clusters of bell shaped flowers also come in a variety of colors, and last for several weeks.  Unlike most plants, they will grow in most exposures, great for planting under shrubs and smaller trees, along with other perennials or all by themselves, and perform exceptionally well in containers.  And with names like Citronelle, Melting Fire, Plum Pudding, Peach Melba, Midnight Rose and Georgia Peach, how could you grow wrong planting these?  Let the ‘Coral Bells’ ring in your garden!  [Hardy zones 3-9, low deer browse, low pest problems and attractive to hummingbirds, Coral Bells prefer well drained evenly moist soils.  Grow in partial sun / shade, with some selections doing better in heavier shade, and some better for full sun!.  Plants grow in a rounded clump shape, ranging in heights of 10 - 16 inches.]

PrintFriendly

Buggy Joe Boggs Report

Monday, May 24th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

This week Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting boxwood with leaf and stem blight as well as boxwood psyllid damages, leaf spot on strawberries, small carpenter bees tunneling in raspberry canes (these are not the larger wood boring carpenter bees), armored scale on many deciduous plants, sawfly on ash and oak, wooly aphid on Beech leaves, the ‘Fiery Searcher Caterpillar Hunter’ (a ground beetle) having a field day catching and eating caterpillars, gypsy moth caterpillars on the move, rose slugs having a field day on rose leaves, armored scales on maple, ash, dogwoods, lilacs, roses, willows, and many more, mushrooms popping up everywhere right now, red thread on turf (big time!), leaf spot on turf, dollar spot on turf, and putting out a ‘patch disease’ alert, so now is time to apply the preventative fungicidal spray program.  Also a reminder from Joe to consider fruit thinning for those trees that have simple set too much fruit – usually leaving 4-6 inches between peaches and 3 inches between plums.

-Catch the Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday at 8:45am on 55KRC The Talk Station.

By the way – It is Emerald Ash Borer Awareness Week!  Learn more at about this extremely destructive insect at www.emeraldashborer.info.

Protect your Ash trees from the Emerald Ash Borers.  Visit our website to learn how!

www.natorp.com

PrintFriendly

Garden Questions of the Week

Monday, May 24th, 2010

Garden Questions of the Week

“Do you know of a way to kill mushrooms that keep growing in the moist spots in our mulch in one of our beds, preferably a natural way if possible?”  -Yes I do.  Kick them, stomp them, hand pick them, mow them (in the lawn), or get out your 9 iron and practice your golf swings.  Hey, they’re already teed up for you!  All ‘natural’ controls.  Sorry, but no actual controls for mushrooms besides physical removal.  They’re all a part of the decomposing process.

“When do I prune my lilacs?”  -Try to prune them (if needed) within 2-3 weeks after they finish flowering, to help ensure flowers again next year. Remember, prune plants that bloom in the spring after they finish flowering.  And with the lilacs, it’s ’soon’ after they finish flowering!

“I had a large stump ground out and now have a large pile of wood chips.  Can I use those for mulch around my flowers, shrubs and trees?”   – I wouldn’t.  They need to be composted first, for several months, and then use them.  Add some grass clippings, manures, coffee grounds, natural fertilizers, etc to the pile and let them cook.  Should be good to go for late fall.  (Fresh wood chips will deplete the soil of nitrogen and other nutrients as they decompose, causing damages to the existing plants.  Under larger mature trees it may not be much of an issue, but for smaller plants – definitely.) 

“You have been talking about the 2010 AARS winning rose called “Easy Does It”.  Is it a Knock Out rose?”  -Nope, it’s a floribunda rose and was the only 2010 award winners.  It is showing extremely good disease resistance (the growers have informed me that its disease resistance is very close to that of the Knock Out, and so far, it looks good), but will require some deadheading, unlike the Knock Out.  But that makes it a lower maintenance rose and that’s what I like – and the flowers on this one are unbelievably gorgeous!  You have to see it to believe it.

PrintFriendly

Lemon Basil Potato Salad

Monday, May 24th, 2010

From the Garden to the Kitchen

Yardboy, I entertained my herb group the other night and we had a great time. Neighbor Tony even brought walleye and red snapper over to deep fry. One of the recipes was Lemon Basil Potato Salad and it was a hit. Here it is, perfect for this weekend’s grill outs:

Lemon Basil Potato Salad

2 pounds unpeeled small red potatoes

4 ribs celery, chopped

4-5 green onions, sliced thin (use green and bulb part)

Handful of basil chopped – be generous

Dressing:

1/4 cup whipping cream

1/3 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Zest of lemon (opt)

Salt and pepper to taste

Put potatoes in saucepan, cover with water, add a large pinch of salt and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and cook until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.  Drain and let cool while making dressing. When cool enough to handle, cut into small chunks.  Add celery, scallions, and basil and toss gently.

 

Whisk cream just until frothy but not at all stiff.  Whisk in mayonnaise and mustard.  Add lemon juice, zest, salt and pepper to taste.  Serve immediately or cover and chill up to a day.  Serves 6. 

-Rita Heikenfeld, CCP / Herbalist   www.abouteating.com

Congrats to Rita for having a clip of one of her famous YouTube videos shown on the Today Show last Monday!  Nice job, Rita!

[How big should a garden be?  Well, the way I see it, a man should never plant a garden larger than his wife can take care of.  -Frank Heikenfeld]

OBKB.  That’s it for this week.  Now do yourself a favor.  Go out and have the best Memorial Day Weekend of your life.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.  (Join us every Saturday morning from 6-9am, In the Garden, on 55KRC The Talk Station.)

PrintFriendly

Controlling Slugs

Monday, May 17th, 2010

Garden Success Tip of the Week

Controlling Slugs (and snails) in the Garden

1.) What are slugs and what do they do?

-Slugs are simply shell-less snails.  These slimy creatures are mollusks, vary in size from ¼ inch to 5 inches plus, range from dark black-brown to orange in color, are hermaphroditic (male and female) laying up to 100 eggs or more (spring and summer), and are highly dependent on moisture in the ground and surrounding habitat.  The slime trails they leave behind (when moving) become silvery when dry, and are used to identify the presence of slugs (along with holes in the plant’s foliage!).

-Slugs over-winter as adults in the ground.  In the summer, they hide during the day under garden debris, mulch, rocks, boards, weeds and groundcover, to stay out of the sun and wind.  A slug is 80% water, and its slime is 98% water, so cool, dark and damp living conditions are important, and the main reason they feed at night, or during cloudy days.  –Slugs are especially active after rainfalls or irrigation periods. 

-Slugs (snails) feed on a variety of living plants as well as decaying plant matter.  They have chewing mouthparts and cause plant damage by creating large irregularly shaped holes in leaves with tattered edges.  They prefer succulent foliage or flowers, seedlings, herbaceous plants, and fruit lying on or close to the ground, etc., but eat anything from garbage to feeding on bones.  Hostas, by the way, are definitely one of their favorite plants!

2.) How can I control Slugs in my garden?  There are several ways to help control slug populations, and in most cases, a combination of methods works best. 

-Cultural Controls:  Eliminate places where slugs can hide, like stones, debris, weeds, and heavy mulches, and try to use plants less susceptible to slug damages.  Open up the areas to more sunlight and airflow, which slugs do not like. 

-Handpicking:  Have a ‘Slugfest’ to see who can pick the most slugs.  Pick at night with a flashlight in hand.  This is effective if done on a regular basis.  Water the area before picking to entice the slugs out. 

-Trapping:  Inverted melon rinds or grapefruit halves (any citrus works) make excellent traps.  Scrape off the accumulated slugs daily and destroy them.  Beer-baited traps work nicely.  Use empty tuna cans, place in the ground around plants and fill with beer (non alcoholic beer works best).  Slugs are attracted to the beer, fall in the can and drown.  Empty and refill with beer as needed. 

-Barriers:  Copper barriers around beds will keep slugs from entering.  Using coarse sand, crushed egg shells, or used coffee grounds around desirable plants creates a border to help keep slugs out.  Sprinkling the soil and or foliage with Diatomaceous Earth acts as a barrier; when slugs crawl across it, they are sliced and dehydrate.  Even using pine straw for mulch seems to deter slug populations. 

-Baits:  Slug baits are probably the most consistent method of slug control.  Deadline, Bug-Geta Plus and SlugGeta are 3 of the most common poison baits.  Please read the label for best application methods and restrictions (some not used around edibles).  Covered containers or bait traps can be used to minimize poisoning concerns. (Cut a 2 liter pop bottle in half and then invert the top part into the bottom part to create a no escape entryway into this homemade trap.  Put your baits inside the container, which now protects it from the kids and wildlife.)  Sluggo and SlugMagic is a safer to use slug bait, and can be used around children, pets, wildlife, the garden, etc; a bit less toxic and much safer around the kids and pets. 

-Natural Enemies:  Slugs have natural enemies, including ducks, geese, chickens, snakes, toads, turtles, birds, beetles, spiders, ants, harvestmen and firefly larvae.  Invite these guys to your slugfest!  *Always read and follow the label / directions on each recommended product before use.  Actual slug control will vary due to many factors, and rarely is there ever 100% control.  We do not recommend the use of salt in or on top of the soil for slug control.

PrintFriendly

Thyme

Monday, May 17th, 2010

Plant of the Week

Excuse me, but would you by chance have the “thyme”?  If not, you should!  Our plant of the week is a group of plants that have been around for a very long thyme, and it seems we just keep getting more and more of them all the thyme.  Thyme is probably one of the best known and maybe most widely used culinary herbs, is generally fairly easy to grow, and not only grown for culinary uses, but for decorative and as a functional plant in the landscape.  Thyme is a perennial / evergreen herb, most being of small -low bush or ground cover forms, with small leaves, woody stems, and a wide range of summer flower colors.  Bees love to spend their thyme collecting the thyme nectar, yet many undesirable insects are repelled by thyme.  Even deer won’t spend thyme eating thyme.  And did we mention there are so many different thymes available that you probably don’t have the thyme to grow them all?  Coconut thyme, creeping thyme, English thyme, French thyme, lemon thyme, lavender thyme, miniature thyme, Mother of thyme, orange thyme, silver thyme, wedgewood thyme, woolly thyme, lime thyme, Elfin thyme, Annie Hall thyme, Magic Carpet thyme, Yardboy thyme (okay just kidding) – I really don’t have the thyme to list them all!  But you should take the thyme to learn more about thyme and then plant different types of thyme in the landscape, around stepping stones – even in containers.  Over thyme, you’ll have all kinds of thyme.  But I doubt you’ll have all the different types of thyme available, because they thyme breeders just keep adding more thyme.  How do they do that?  I thought there was only so much thyme in the day.  Guess I need to take some thyme and figure that one out.  In the mean-thyme, add some thyme to your life.

PrintFriendly

Buggy Joe Boggs Report

Monday, May 17th, 2010

Problems in the Garden this Week

This week, Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting mite damages on Black Hill spruce, root and crown rot on petunias, rose slugs feasting away on rose leaves, hydrangea leaf tier moth chewing on a few hydrangea leaves (actually cement two leaves edges around them forming an envelope, and then eat), grass bagworms now doing their thing, spring and fall cankerworm pretty close to being finished eating leaves as well as pine sawflies wrapping up another needle eating season, anthracnose now showing up on Sycamore leaves (The yardboy graduated from Sycamore H.S. and I don’t remember any anthracnose!), hemlock scale found on hemlocks as well as spruce, firs, pines and yews (yews? – really?), spruce spider mites out and about, and that yellow flowering plant in fields right now – that’s Cressleaf Groundsel.  Joe also wanted to remind everyone to NOT plant red and black / purple raspberries together, and try to keep them far apart – plant the black / purple upwind from the red.  And for those of you planting cucumbers, squash and melons, keep your eyes open for the striped and spotted cucumber beetles.  As they feed on the foliage, they transmit a disease (bacterial wilt) which will kill the plants. 

-Catch the Buggy Joe Boggs Report Saturdays at 8:42AM on 55KRC The Talk Station

PrintFriendly

Garden Questions

Monday, May 17th, 2010

Garden Questions of the Week

“I haven’t gotten any vegetables planted yet and it’s the middle of May.  Am I getting too late?”  -Are you kidding?!  J   I’ve just barely started planting my container gardens, and usually don’t finish until sometime in June!  And although I see a few gardens starting to fill with veggie plants, we have plenty of time for planting most veggie plants.  Especially tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, herbs, etc, as well as direct sown seed veggies.  HAVE AT IT!  (Same for fruit trees, grapes, berries, etc.)

“What is the name of the houseplant that you are always talking about that anyone can grow indoors?”  -It’s Zamioculcus zamiifolia, or commonly known as the ZZ plant.  Grows like a bush – gets 3-4 feet tall, and as wide as the pot its growing in.  Glossy green leaves, nice looking plant, and about the only way to kill a ZZ plant is to try and grow it in complete darkness, or keep it too wet.  If you can’t grow a plant indoors, guaranteed this one will work for you.  Tolerates medium low to bright light, and only needs watering when totally dry, thanks to their tuberous roots.  The ZZ plant – expensive, but guaranteed it’s worth it.

“I have small trees growing up around the trunk of our crabapple we planted last year.  Should we let those grow or what do we do with them?”   -Those are ’sucker’s trying to sprout up from the root system.  More than likely, your crabapple is grafted onto another apple root stock, and those roots are also trying to grow – very common, as many select trees are grafted.  Clip the suckers off.  Do not let them grow.  To help keep them growing, use a product called “Sucker Stopper”. This product will keep them from re-growing for most of the season.  Really saves a lot of time.

“The ends of my white pines are covered with beige colored finger like structures and I can’t tell if it’s a bug or disease or the tree is dying.  Have you seen this?”  Sure have!  Those beige colored structures are the male flowers of the pine.  And the beige colored dust that flies off is the pollen.  On many pines, the beige structures are the male flowers and the purple structures at the tips are the female flowers, which once pollinated, begin to develop the cones.  All a part of the plant’s processes – but definitely seeing more this year than I’ve seen in a long time!

“I’m seeing a lot of commercials about the Topsy Turvy upside down tomato hanger.  Is that a good way to grow tomatoes?”  -Well, let’s just say that it’s not the best way to grow tomatoes, but it does work, and it does afford us the opportunity for vertical gardening where only something can be hung up rather than placed on the ground or patio. Lot’s of folks have been successful using them, they’re a great conversation piece seeing a tomato grow upside down, and usually do best growing the smaller tomatoes like cherry, grape, and yellow pear.  But any tomato will work.  By the way, my dad was the pioneer of growing the first upside down tomato right here in Cincinnati Ohio.  He grew the first one out of the bottom of a 10 inch hanging basket (had to water it 2-3 times a day!) and eventually went to a 5 gallon pickle bucket.  Too bad he didn’t invent the Topsy Turvy!

“I believe someone was mentioning a product to help cut my time back on watering the container plantings?  Do you know what that was?”  – Sure do and it’s a product that is about the size of a large grain of sand.  It’s called Soil Moist, and the small polymers really are the size of a large grain of sand.  When mixed into the potting soil, the crystals soften and swell as water is added and absorbed.  When your potting mix dries out, the polymers will release their water back into the soil to help water the plants.  They act sort of as a reservoir.  And, the expansion and retraction of the polymers during this process helps soil aeration, which is another benefit for using Soil Moist!  By the way, when adding Soil Moist, make sure it’s incorporated into the soil at root level of the plants, not at the top or on the soil surface.  Now, if you have a container that is already planted and want to add Soil Moist, you can!  Simply take a pencil or dowel and poke several holes down into the soil mix.  Sprinkle a few crystals into each hole, and then backfill with the potting mix.  Now you’ll have water channels of Soil Moist for your already potted containers.  One last thing – make sure you read the label and follow the instructions.  The first time I used Soil Moist (many years ago), I didn’t read how much to add, over did it, and after I watered my planter, the extra polymers swelled up and pushed my plants right out of the pot!

PrintFriendly

Strawberry Glace Pie

Monday, May 17th, 2010

From the Garden to the Kitchen

Yardboy, the wild strawberries are just starting to ripen, which means one thing: their domestic cousins are not far behind. Here’s a great recipe for fresh strawberry pie.  And if you have raspberries, go ahead and use them. (This is one from when you grew up yardboy: an heirloom 50’s recipe!)  You- maybe.  I am more a 60’s child! -rw

STRAWBERRY GLACE PIE

Baked pie shell

1 quart strawberries

1 cup cool water, divided into 2/3 and 1/3 cup measures

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

3 oz cream cheese, softened (opt)

Sweetened whipped cream

Wash, drain and hull berries. Simmer a cup of strawberries with 2/3 cup water for about 3 minutes. Mix sugar cornstarch and 1/3 cup water and add to simmering berry mixture. Boil until clarified a little, about a minute, stirring constantly. Cool. Now this is optional: spread cream cheese over bottom of shell. Save 1/2 cup good berries and put rest in shell and cover with cooled mixture and garnish with reserved berries. Refrigerate about 2 hours until firm. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.

Why strawberries are good for you:

  • The benefits of strawberries:
    Excellent sources of vitamin C
  • Good source of folate and potassium
  • Low in calories; high in fiber
  • Provide anti-cancer bioflavonoids

-Rita Heikenfeld, CCP / Herbalist   www.abouteating.com

[Do I know what it means to come home at night to a woman who will give me a little love, a little affection, and a little tenderness?  I sure do.  It means I'm in the wrong house. -Frank Heikenfeld]

OBKB.  That’s it for this week.  Now do yourself a favor.  Go out and have the best week and weekend of your life.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.  (Join us every Saturday 6-9am, In the Garden, on 55KRC.)

PrintFriendly

 
Ron Wilson

"In the Garden with Ron Wilson"
Saturdays: 6-9am
55KRC - The Talk Station
Satellite Radio XM 158

Listen online at
www.55krc.com
www.ronwilsononline.com
10-12pm
610 WTVN (Columbus)

Fridays:
8:05am w/ Brian Thomas
55KRC (during the season)

"Homeworx Team / Local 12
Sat./Mon. Morning news

"Homeworx with
Gary Sullivan"
Sundays 11:30am
Local 12

Cincinnati Magazine /
Community

Press Papers /
Livings Great Magazine