Garden Questions of the Week

“We’re planting new trees in our yard, and we do have deer in the area.  Anything we should to help protect these trees?”  -YES!  A newly planted tree becomes a scratching post to those bucks rubbing their antlers.  Protect your new investments with tree guards, tree wrap, bark shields, plastic sleeves, as well as the additional use of deer repellents such as Liquid Fence, DeerScram, and Repels All.  Keep these protectors on the new tree trunks over the entire winter, and remove them late next spring.

“Hey Ron!  What is the green ivy stuff which grows up trees like poison ivy, but it has 5 leaves instead of 3?  Does it cause a rash like poison ivy?”  -”Leaves of 3 let it be”, but leaves of five and you’ll be fine.  Okay, that doesn’t rhyme, but you get my point.  It’s called Virginia creeper, and is actually sold as a desirable landscape vine.  And no rash from the creeper.  Interestingly enough, it’s amazing how attractive both can be in the fall, especially poison ivy with the great fall colors and wonderful berries.  But don’t be fooled by its natural beauty.  It can be a real monster when it gets on your skin.

“I tried to find out more about The Nut Wizard, but I think the links wouldn’t open.  Could you give that one more time?”  -Yes, it’s www.nutwizard.com.  I think I had “thenutwizard”.  Pretty cool tool for those who need to collect walnuts, crabapples, sweetgum balls, etc.

“Is it too late to plant grass seed and have it grow this fall?”  -No, or least it shouldn’t be “if” the weather stays as it normally does!  BUT, that seeding window is closing quickly!  Here’s the deal.  As the temperatures cool down, the time it takes for grass seed to germinate gets longer and for it to grow takes longer, and as long as the weather hangs in there, you’ll be okay.  But if it would change and get cold and stay like that, or start having sudden serious freezes, that could affect newer seedlings.  That’s why late August thru mid to late September are the ideal times to seed.  Comes up quicker, roots quicker, hardens off quicker.  So, from here forward you start to roll the dice on how the weather will be.  Next best time to seed after this, will be dormant seeding this winter.

“I just planted a tree from your Outlet Sale, and the leaves have started to fall off?  What did I do wrong?”   -Assuming correct planting and watering, this is very common for trees planted now to drop leaves early.  Keep your normal watering going (don’t over react and over water as many folks do), and be sure to check the moisture level both in the root ball and surrounding soil each time before your water.  Container grown trees may require watering every 3-4 days for the first 2-3 weeks, where B&B trees may only need a good soaking every 5-7 days or so.  Again, check the root ball each time before watering.

“How do I go about growing a Buckeye tree from the Buckeye nut?”  – Growing Your Own Buckeye Tree?  First a little information – The genus ‘Aesculus’ covers a wide array of trees and shrubs including Japanese Horsechestnut, Indian Horsechestnut, Red Horsechestnut, Common Horsechestnut, many ‘hybrid’ Buckeyes, California Buckeye, Chinese Buckeye, Texas Buckeye, Yellow Buckeye, Bottlebrush Buckeye, Red Buckeye, Painted Buckeye, and of course, Aesculus glabra, or commonly known as “The Ohio Buckeye”.  Ohio is the Buckeye State, and Ohioans are known as “Buckeyes”.  And, of course, there is that little tie in with The Ohio State University, as they are “The Buckeyes”, along with their mascot “Brutus Buckeye”.  And when it comes time for college football, the buckeye seeds become a major part buckeye fans wardrobes.  That’s when buckeye fans start thinking about having their own buckeye tree, not only to commemorate the state of Ohio, but to show loyalty and pay homage to The Ohio State University.  (Okay, I’m a Buckeye grad – what can I say?)  So, how do you grow you own from a buckeye seed?  Actually, it’s fairly simple.  Growing a Buckeye from a Seed – Collecting the seeds:  Buckeye seeds ripen by September and usually begin to fall from the trees mid September and into October.  Collect fresh seeds as soon as they fall to the ground (good luck fighting the squirrels for them!)  Separate the seed from the leathery covering or husk, and your buckeye seeds are ready to plant.  Yes, they are planted fresh, and must not be allowed to dry out.      Planting the seeds:  Fresh buckeye seeds are either planted in the fall (in the ground or in pots), or stored in the refrigerator for planting in the spring.  If planted outdoors in the fall, make sure they are protected from squirrels and other rodents with chicken wire or screen mesh.  Buckeye seeds generally need a cold period of around 120 days before they germinate, but don’t be surprised if they begin to root and send up a shoot before winter arrives.  Plant the seeds about 2 inches deep (about an inch or so over the top of the seed), protect from the squirrels, and keep them moist, but not wet.  A light layer of mulch will help.   If you decide to hold the seeds and plant in the spring, place them in some damp peat moss inside a plastic bag and store them in the refrigerator for 4 months.  If you have room, they can also be planted in small pots (4-5 inch) and stored in the fridge.  Once they have developed a white root, they can be planted in the ground or in pots.  Again, once outside, protect from the squirrels.  Note:  I would suggest growing them in pots for the first 2-3 years, and then planting the young buckeyes in the ground.  Be sure to water and feed as needed during the growing season.  And you will have better success growing them in a filtered sun or partially shaded area for those first 2-3 years.  Do plant more than you would like.  Germination rates are rarely 100%.  Or, you can skip all of this and go purchase one from your local independent garden store!  Poisonous Seed?  The Buckeye seed, or nut, has considerable folklore from mystical qualities, to good luck charm, to being a cure for rheumatism and other ailments.  The seed, or nut, is bitter and if eaten in quantity, is poisonous to man.  According to OSU Extension, “Toxicity of buckeye is attributed to glycosides (e.g., aesculin, fraxin), saponin (aescin), and possibly alkaloids. Sprouts and leaves produced in early spring and seeds are especially poisonous. However, experimental feedings have shown that poisoning does not always follow buckeye consumption. Affected animals exhibit depression, incoordination, twitching, paralysis, inflammation of mucous membranes, and vomiting. Colic has also been reported in poisoned horses. Treated animals usually survive.  In the spring, while waiting for other forage to become available, animals should not be allowed to graze in woodland pastures where there are buckeye sprouts.”  Bottom line – have fun with the nuts but just don’t eat them!  One last note:   GO BUCKS!  J  By the way, I am also a big Bearcat Fan, Kentucky Wildcat Fan, and a Bengals Fan.  But I don’t have any Success Tips on raising those critters!

Garden Questions of the Week

“Are the ornamental cabbage and kale planted in the fall, edible?”  -These are basically the same as the ones grown in the vegetable garden, but have been bred for thicker leaves with showier white to pink to reddish purple colors as the temperatures get cooler.  They’re technically all kales, with the rounded leafed selections referred to as ornamental cabbage.  Planted as an annual, they are biennial and if they make it thru the winter, actually flower in the spring.  Great foliage, great late fall colors, and yes, the leaves are edible, but mostly used as a garnish.

“How long will pansy flowers last?”  -If the winter weather is mild, we’ve seen pansies flower all fall, of and on in the winter, and actually continue to flower in the spring.  But, I’d say don’t count on it.  Plant them for fall colors, and if they make it thru the winter, it’s a bonus!  By the way, pansy flowers are also very edible.

“Are garden mums planted in the fall, hardy?”  -Unfortunately, many of the selections of mums sold in the fall are sold for their spectacular colors and not so much for their hardiness.  Thus the name ‘garden mums’ not ‘hardy mums’.  So consider them tender perennials or annuals and if they do come back, it’s a plus.  BUT, there are new kids on the block that are showing great winter hardiness – they’re Mammoth Mums.  Developed in Minnesota, these large growing hardy mums are coming back each year, and bringing back the ‘perennial’ in mums. By the way, Mammoth mums get big – 3 feet high and 4 feet wide – so give them room to grow.  And believe it or not, even mum flowers are edible!

“I saw your segment talking about willows in a bush form.  What were they again?”  – Okay, you all know this one – Pussy Willow!  It’s a large shrub and sometimes a small ornamental tree – 10-12 feet tall – and of course the fuzzy gray catkins in the spring.  There is Dwarf Arctic Blue Willow – a finely branched shrub – small narrow grayish leaves with purplish stems – grows 5-6 feet tall and wide – and like a willow, tolerates wet soils but grows nicely in normal soils.  And this is one of my favorites – love the name -Hakuro Nishiki.- gets 6-8 feet tall (have seen them taller) – long arching branches and covered with variegated pink and white foliage.  Say it – “Hakuro Nishiki”.

“We’re looking for large growing shrubs for a screen planting that we would also like to be evergreen.  Any suggestions?”  -For semi to evergreen shrubs in a leafy plant (not needles), take a look at the viburnums – Viburnum burkwood. – 6-10 feet tall – pinkish white flowers fragrant flowers in spring – wonderful semi to evergreen foliage.  Viburnum Prague – again 6-10 feet tall – creamy white flowers in spring – red to black edible berries – small glossy semi evergreen foliage.  Viburnum Alleghany – 10 feet plus in height – creamy white flowers – red to black berries – dark green leathery semi to evergreen foliage.  All great plants and great for screening. 

“We need some evergreen screening but our yard is not all that large.  Pines and spruce will get too big.  What else can you recommend?”  – For really small tight areas, look at Dwarf Alberta Spruce.  Slow grower, 5-10 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide.  Also look at Taxus Hicksi, a columnar Japanese yew – been around forever- sun or shade – tough, durable and basically maintained at any size.  A great solid narrow evergreen screen!  For a little larger evergreen screen consider the upright junipers like Hetz Columnaris, Spearmint, Iowa, Perfecta – all grow around 10-15 feet tall and 4-6 feet wide, and fairly quickly.  If you like blue green needles, consider Juniper Blue Point or Juniper Blue Haven – again 10 feet plus in height and narrow in width.  And don’t forget Pyramidal arborvitae – Emerald Green Arborvitae has become one of the most popular – 10-12 feet high yet staying 3-4 feet wide.  And there’s an arborvitae for an upright evergreen with a little more size but still not over powering – Spring Grove Arborvitae.  Developed at our own Spring Grove Cemetery, this fast growing evergreen gets 20-25 feet tall but only 8-10 feet wide, max!  Fast, tall but not wide, and guess what – showing great deer resistance as well!

Garden Questions of the Week

“When planting a tree with a burlap ball, do you keep the burlap intact or cut away and remove?  I’ve been told to keep it in tact because it will rot away, but also told to remove it.  I’m confused.”  -There are many opinions on handling balled and burlap trees.  And in most cases, either way works.  Personally, I like to slice the burlap on the sides of the ball with a knife (after in the hole) and open it up.  Then, I will backfill around the sides.  Then, I will either cut and remove the burlap on the top, or loosen it around the trunk and slice it open, leaving it on the ball.  The slicing opens up the burlap, yet allows it to help hold the root ball together and the tree more stable as it roots in.  And yes, the burlap eventually rots.  And with some smaller trees, I may remove all the burlap when I plant if the root ball seems solid).  And I have planted trees and left all the burlap as is.  Now that should really confuse you! J 

 “I am over seeding our existing lawn.  Do I use a starter fertilizer for the seed, or a regular lawn food for the lawn?”  -Use the starter fertilizer when doing any seeding.  It will still give your lawn a nice shot of nitrogen, as well as help getting those new seedlings up and growing.  Don’t forget to feed with the regular lawn food later in November.

“I’m not doing any seeding in the lawn – just feeding.  But I do have a few weeds.  Can I spot treat with a weed killer now?”  -You could, but you’ll have better results if you wait until mid to late October, which is the best time for weed control.  Feed the lawn now as needed, and then using a water soluble weed killer, spot treat the weeds in the lawn as needed mid to later October. 

“I’m seeing spring bulbs for sale in the garden stores.  Is now the time to plant the bulbs?”  -When you see spring flowering bulbs for sale in September, my saying is this:”Buy now – plant later”.  That way you get the bulbs you’re looking for while the selection is good, but don’t plant them until the air and soil temperatures have cooled down – usually mid October and thru November.

“I want to know when it is okay to trim back Knock Out roses.  Mine are fine – just need reduced in size.”  -You can always prune as needed during the growing season.  In late fall / early winter, if needed, you can cut them back a bit if hanging over a walk or in the way.  Major pruning / cut back will happen late winter (while the roses are still dormant) or late March early April after they have started to bud and grow just a bit.