Posts Tagged ‘herbs’
Tuesday, May 4th, 2010
Garden Success Tip of the Week
Growing Herbs in Containers – Growing herbs can be a real pleasure for all your senses – beauty, fragrances, great tastes, wonderful foliage, and more. And they’re very disease and insect tolerant. Herbs grow great in the garden, in the landscape, in the house, and best of all, in containers! Growing herbs in containers is easy, fun, makes them more accessible, and believe it or not, they simply make a wonderful looking container planting! Here’s what you’ll need for your container herb garden.
1.) Remember the basics for good container gardening:
-Chose the right pot – Window boxes, plastic pots, bushel baskets, any container with good drainage will work for herbs. -Use soil-less potting soil and nothing less. -Add a little Osmocote for a slow release all season light feeding for your herbs – they don’t require much in nutrients. -And, of course, Soil Moist to help cut watering in half.
-Find a spot with at least ½ day of sun or more for your herbs.
2.) Now you’re ready to plant herbs in containers, but which will you plant? Well think about the foods you like to cook, or which herbs you use the most. If you’re still not sure, try these combinations:
-For Italian cooking, grow basil, sage, thyme, oregano, rosemary, chives, and parsley
-For Seafood try growing parsley, dill, basil, lemon thyme, tarragon, chives, and savory
-Or for Mexican, try cilantro, basil, garlic chives, oregano, and even a pepper plant!
3.) Or just try growing groups or individual pots of your favorite herbs like mints, or sage, or basil, or thyme. Or how about theme plantings? A crock of thyme would be a Jim Croce planter (thyme in a bottle – okay, crock). Or how about a Simon and Garfunkel planting? You know it – Parsley Sage Rosemary and Thyme. Once you get started growing herbs in containers, you’ll be hooked forever!
[My mother taught me GENETICS – “You are just like your father”, and about BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION – “Quit acting like your Uncle Doug!”
Tags: growing herbs in containers, herbs
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Thursday, March 11th, 2010
From the Garden to the Kitchen
Yardboy, already the mint, thyme, oregano and tarragon are starting to sprout from their winter slumber. It won’t be long before they’ll need thinning or pruning. Here’s a great idea for freshly snipped herbs:
HERBAL BUTTERS -Start with the freshest butter. Herbs for butters should be washed the day before while still on the plant. That gives them a whole day to dry. Excessive moisture in the herbs may spoil the butter.
Remember the poultry seasoning we use at Thanksgiving? Instead of shaking the seasoning out of a can, why not put it under the skin of the turkey in the form of a flavorful butter! And what about pasta – think of the possibilities here with a dollop of herbal butter on hot fettuccini. I use my food processor for making herbal butters. You can also mix them by hand or in a mixer.
Basting blend for poultry:
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
1-1/4 teaspoons each: chopped fresh rosemary, lemon thyme, oregano, sage and parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
Garlic and chive butter:
Wonderful for making garlic bread or for seasoning sautéed vegetables and potatoes.
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon garlic, pressed or minced or more to taste
4 tablespoons fresh chopped onion chives
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive herb butter:
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard or to taste
2 medium cloves garlic, pressed or minced
1/4 cup Greek olives, chopped
1 teaspoon minced thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon minced rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon fennel leaves, minced
Using and storing herbal butters:
- Pack in containers, decorative molds or roll into logs. Freeze for longer storage.
- Pipe through a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip onto a cookie sheet, then freeze.
- Make curls with a butter curler.
- Make balls with a melon baller.
- Whip butter until light and then pack into crocks.
-Rita Heikenfeld, CCP / Herbalist www.abouteating.com
["If I stood in the middle of the forest speaking, and Rita wasn't around to hear me, would I still be wrong?" -Frank Heikenfeld]
That’s it for this Week
OBKB. That’s it for this week. Now do yourself a favor. Go out and have the best weekend of your life. See ya. RW, the Yardboy. (Come see us this weekend at the Cincinnati Home and Garden Show. Natorp’s Landscape is in booth #330. Gary Sullivan and Ron Wilson will be broadcasting live on 55KRC from 12-3pm Sunday (3/14). Look for them at the Champion Windows Block!)
Tags: hearbal butter, herbs
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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010
From the Garden to the Kitchen
Yardboy, it’s finally warming up, or should I say the snow is just starting to melt here. I wanted to give some tips on keeping herbs in the house, healthy, as we segue into what I call the “in between time” – between winter and spring. This is the time of year that you’ll see new growth barely starting to sprout on rosemary, stevia, lavender, oregano, mint, etc. Basically all those herbs that are perennial but have to be overwintered indoors in our area. Go ahead and use some of the new growth. It will be less flavorful than when it’s grown outside but will still taste good in foods. Often the leaves of older growth further down the stem, like rosemary, bay and lavender, will have turned brown and look dry. You can use those, too – just consider them naturally dried! My stevia is starting to shoot up new growth from the base of the plant. I’ll wait until it gets at least 6″ before I start using the leaves.
Go ahead and fertilize LIGHTLY – make it weaker than the label says. Water lightly, as well. Don’t overdo with either, especially water as it tends to sit around the roots deep in the pot and can do damage there. Continue to rotate the plants so that they get an even amount of light all around.
-Rita Heikenfeld, CCP / Herbalist www.abouteating.com
[Rita wants me to read a book to help enhance our relationship. It's titled "Women are from Venus and Men are Wrong." -Frank Heikenfeld]
That’s it for this Week
OBKB. That’s it for this week. Remember, be patient as we begin to move towards the spring season. Now, do yourself a favor. Go out and have the best weekend of your life. See ya. RW the Yardboy.
Come see Natorp’s Landscape at the Cincinnati Home and Garden Show – the booth is #330. Gary Sullivan and Ron Wilson will be broadcasting their annual 55KRC H&G Shows both Sundays (3/7 & 3/14) from 12-3pm at the Champion Windows Display. Stop by and say hello! Who knows – The Big Dog Tony Bender and Executive Producer extraordinaire Joe Strecker may even be there!
Tags: herbs, indoor herbs
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Wednesday, October 14th, 2009
From the Garden to the Kitchen with Culinary Expert, Rita Heikenfeld
Yardboy, I’ve gotten requests for the proper way to dry herbs, so here you go!
PRESERVING HERBS BY DRYING:
Except for lavender (the flower buds contain the most flavor and fragrance), I like to use the leafy portion of the herbs – the flavor of herbs is best right when the plant is beginning to form buds, but most of the time, I harvest whenever I can. Sometimes it’s at this stage, other times the herbs are in full flower. And remember, the flowers of culinary herbs are edible, so if you want to dry them, that’s OK. My thought is at least I’m getting them harvested!
TRADITIONAL BUNCHING OF THE WHOLE PLANT:
Herbs like basil, catnip, chives, feverfew, lemon balm, marjoram, mints, except apple mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, among others, dry nicely by these traditional methods:
1. Strip an inch or so from the bottom of the stem and hang upside down secured with a rubber band or string away from heat, light and moisture (or hang upside down in paper bag).
2. You can also place the leaves in single layers in a basket, on a cloth or screen.
When they crinkle between your fingers, they’re dry. Strips leaves from stems and leave whole if possible. Volatile oils stay intact until you crush them for cooking. Store away from heat and light.
To use dry herbs in place of fresh, use l/3 of the amount called for, since dry herbs are stronger.
Herbs hung in bunches, dried naturally usually turn a grayish green. To keep a brighter color, you can chop up the herbs coarsely, lay them on screens or a towel, and let them dry. They will dry faster and retain a nicer color.
Rita Heikenfeld, CCP www.abouteating.com
NOTE: Rita will be our special guest this Saturday on “In the Garden with Ron Wilson” – 55KRC The Talk Station. Call and talk to Rita -749-5500.
[Did you see where a male snake charmer married a female undertaker? Their bath towels read "Hiss" and "Hearse".]
That’s it for this Week
OBKB. That’s it for this week. Now, do yourself a favor. Go out and have the absolute best weekend of your life. See ya. RW, the Yardboy. (Go Bucks, Go Cats, Go Bengals, and Go Tony Stewart!)
Join us on our chatline (The Saturday Morning Garden Party with Joe and Ron) every Saturday morning (6-9am) at www.ronwilsononline.com.
[One can tell a tree is nomadic when it packs up its trunk and leaves.]
Tags: herbs, preserving herbs
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Wednesday, September 16th, 2009
Garden Success Tips of the Week
Core Aerating the Lawn – You know, a lush healthy lawn begins with a lush healthy root system. And if your soil is loamy and rich in organic matter, no problem! But if it’s like most folk’s, it’s good old heavy compacted clay. Root growth is inhibited by heavy clay because of the restricted oxygen supply, lack of moisture, lack of nutrients, etc. Well here’s a way to begin to turn that heavy compacted clay, into the perfect base for that lush healthy lawn.
It’s called core aerating, and is a process done with a core aerating machine (available at many tool rentals), which uses hollow tines to remove plugs of the soil. And it’s the removal of these plugs, that’s so beneficial to the turf. Core aerating loosens compacted soils, which is especially important in yards where kids play or there’s a lot of foot traffic or heavy equipment, it helps in the reduction of thatch, it improves water infiltration to the grass roots, improves nutrient infiltration, increases oxygen supply to the roots, releases carbon dioxide, and ultimately, encourages new, deeper root growth, which as we all know, means a healthier lawn.
The frequency of core aerating depends on your soil and the amount of use your lawn receives. Once a year is good, twice is even better. And if you’ve never core aerated before, well now’s the time to get started. Spring and fall are actually the best two times for aerating (while the lawn is actively growing), with fall being the better of the two. And, if you anticipate seeding or fertilizing the lawn, core aerate first
Proper soil moisture is important when you aerate, as it needs to be not too dry and not too wet, but just in the middle. When core aerating your lawn, the cores should be about ½ to ¾ inch in diameter, and about 2-3 inches deep. It’s nice to get the cores about 3-5 inches apart, so it may require a couple passes over the turf with the machine.
By the way, if you’re curious what to do with the cores that are deposited on the soil’s surface, well, just leave them alone. They’ll dry, begin to fall apart, and the next time you mow, they’ll disappear back into the top of the turf. But it will look a little funny for a few days!
[If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?]
Preserving Herbs by Rita Heikenfeld
1.) Drying – Natural: Strip three inches from the bottom of the stem. Hang in loose bunches away from heat and light. Or toss them in a paper bag and store away from heat and light. Really unorthodox, but it works: place in paper bag and close tightly. Leave in trunk of car. The heat won’t be too intense, the herbs will dry perfectly in a few days or so and your car will smell heavenly. Talk about aroma therapy! Microwave: A big debate over this as to whether it drives essential oils out. Personally, I like this method for intensely flavored herbs like bay, mint, hybrid basils, etc. Strip leaves from the stem and lay them in a single layer between two paper towels. Microwave on high for about a minute, until crisp. This works well with bay, mint and other intensely flavored herbs allowing the color to stay a nice green. If you do successive batches, place a cup of water in the microwave during drying to avoid heat build up in the microwave.
2.) Storing Dried Herbs (Leave them in whole leaf form if possible so they retain essential/volatile oils. Store in cool dry place away from light.)
Refrigerator/Freezer: You can make herb pastes and oils by whirling herbs in enough olive oil to make a paste or oil of pouring consistency. Store in frig for a couple of weeks or frozen for almost 6 months. Herb blocks are easy to store in the freezer. Pack herb pastes in little baggies and force air out. Freeze and cut off what you need. Or make herb logs for the freezer with butter or your favorite substitute. Again, cut off what you need. You can also just chop herbs and freeze hard, uncovered, on a cookie sheet. Then pack in containers and they will be pourable even when frozen. Herbs that are frozen can be used in any cooked dishes. They will turn dark and lose texture but will have a wonderful, summery flavor. How long to preserved herbs/spices last? Really depends on conditions. Dry herbs and spices especially lose their punch over time. Do a sniff and rub test: When you open the container, you should smell a lovely herbal aroma. Likewise, when you rub the herbs between your palms, the flavor component should waft up to you. Natorp’s09/Heikenfeld
[Do Lipton Tea employees take coffee breaks?]
Tags: core aerating, herbs, lawn, preserving herbs
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Saturday, May 30th, 2009
“When is the best time to apply a grub preventer to my lawn?” -Actually, it can be applied anytime late May thru July (and sometimes into August) but I usually look to do it sometime in June. If you have a bluegrass lawn, applying the grub preventers now (May) will also help control billbug, which can be very damaging to bluegrass lawns, especially if it is a dryer late May and June. Remember to buy the grub preventer for summer coverage, not the grub killer, which is used later for a one time shot / kill.
“Last year you mentioned some drought tolerant annuals that you actually planted in your containers on the southwest exposure. What were they again?” -Just finished planting those again! Ornamental sweet potato vine, creeping Jenny, Angelonia, Magilla Perilla, and Diamond Frost Euphorbia. They all do a great job baking in the sun!
“My 25′ blue spruce has lost all the needles at the top of the tree. I can see the brown cones hanging down, but no needles and no new growth. What can I do?” -Sounds like you have bagworms (brown cone like things hanging from the branches) that stripped the needles last year. If those were closer to the ground, I’d say pick them off now and destroy them, as the egg will be hatching out of those bags within the next 2-4 weeks. And, each bag (if a female is inside) can have 500 eggs or more inside! Picking off now and destroying them physically eliminates them before they hatch. But in this case, where you can’t get up there to pick them off, just keep watching. They’ll be hatching out in the next 2-4 weeks, and when they do, and you see those little bags moving around the spruce, spray with ‘Bt’. May take two shots, but that should take care of them. Keep monitoring to be sure. As for the dead top, if nothing regrows, you may need to have the dead top removed.
“After your class with Rita Heikenfeld, I purchased about 10 herbs which have all been planted. When will it be OK to harvest them? Do the plants need to reach a certain size first? I am afraid to pull some leaves off now, and have almost nothing left of the plant. Always love your classes!” -Thanks! Okay, why not let Riat answer your question today? -”You’ll be glad you purchased those herbs. For harvesting, it depends on how big they are. Here are some tips: Start when the herb has enough foliage to maintain growth. Perennial herbs, like oregano and thyme can be harvested now now, cut back up to 75% and will give you a second flush of growth during the season. Basil: let it get several sets of healthy leaves. By the end of June/early July the plant will be very large and you can harvest a good amount and pick off any flower heads that form (use those too). Leaf production of annual herbs is most abundant before flowering. Annual herbs have the best volatile oil flavor when harvested after flower buds appear but before they open. Dill doesn’t take to pruning as well as basil, and neither does Cilantro. I toss a few seeds of each in the ground on a bi-weekly basis to keep a nice patch going. The bees love all flowers of herbs, especially thyme. Harvest early in the morning after the dew dries but before the heat of the day drives the oils either back down to the roots or out the top. (Lavender is notorious for being immensely fragrant right before noon) Herbs like lavender and tarragon love to be pruned – you can go about halfway down for each when they are large and you’ll get a second flush of growth. Prune/harvest perennial herbs until one month before frost date. Too late pruning makes tender growth come out and sometimes that new growth can’t harden off before winter. Hope this helps.” -Rita
Tags: drought tolerant annuals, grub preventer, herbs
Posted in Questions of the Week | 2 Comments »
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